My Second “Techie” – well all of it!

[YNWaN]

Ken, I've only just seen this thread - outstanding - looks really good!

I've used iron on veneer in the past and would agree that it is pretty easy to use - you've still done a really excellent job of it though.

So, how about spray the platter and buttons black - pick out the lettering on the buttons in silver? laser etch the Technics logo into the veneer - that works very nicely .

[Qwin]

Gordon - How do you apply the contact adhesive?
I have allways had problems getting an even film, admittedly not on veneering projects.

The thing about contact adhesive is it never sets hard and you always get that flexibility or give in the surface, depending on how thick you apply it of course, then there is the major draw back that you only get one chance to position it.

Don't you find the glue tears away at the edges in streaks when you sand it, forms bobbles of rubbery glue? The Iron on does this as well but to a lesser degree. I am considering using the PVA Iron on technique in future, as apposed to the pre coated hot melt I have been using, as I think even better results may be achievable with that.


Mark - There is lots I could have tried, I even considered some marquetry (no pun intended) but I settled for this look as it sits well with her (GF) old silver Technics amp and Tannoy M20 speakers which are Walnut.

[Qwin]

I got the arm wiring sorted.

So what does the arm and other mods sound like?

It just has more authority, delivering a richer fuller sound from a densely black background. Sound stage is much more evident and a lot wider. The bass is deeper and nicely textured; the overall sound makes the stock arm sound thin and veiled in comparison.

I’m very pleased with the end result both visually and sonically.

[Tarzan]

I got the arm wiring sorted.

So what does the arm and other mods sound like?

It just has more authority, delivering a richer fuller sound from a densely black background. Sound stage is much more evident and a lot wider. The bass is deeper and nicely textured; the overall sound makes the stock arm sound thin and veiled in comparison.

I’m very pleased with the end result both visually and sonically.

A triumph Ken, can you please stop posting pictures now as it is making folk very envious. Looks stunning!

[Qwin]

ok Andy, I will concentrate on my deck now and how to incorporate the Techie motor, 3 1/2 Kilo Acrylic platter and linear tracking arm into a new plinth

[6L6]

A triumph Ken, can you please stop posting pictures now as it is making folk very envious. Looks stunning!

I agree! It's fantastic and makes me want to go buy another just to do those mods!

[Tarzan]

In actual fact Ken, we need more pictures.

[Gordon Steadman]

Gordon - How do you apply the contact adhesive?
I have allways had problems getting an even film, admittedly not on veneering projects.

The thing about contact adhesive is it never sets hard and you always get that flexibility or give in the surface, depending on how thick you apply it of course, then there is the major draw back that you only get one chance to position it.

Don't you find the glue tears away at the edges in streaks when you sand it, forms bobbles of rubbery glue? The Iron on does this as well but to a lesser degree. I am considering using the PVA Iron on technique in future, as apposed to the pre coated hot melt I have been using, as I think even better results may be achievable with that.

Hi Ken,

The secret is to put the glue on as thin as possible, the serrated widgets supplied are useless and you end up with thick patches. OK for kitchen worktops but not for finer work. I use a scraper. Admitedly, you only get one shot at it but it means getting it right first time

The joints are the dodgy bit of course. Corners are easy enough, the usual problem is not letting the glue go hard before cutting and sanding, yes the glue grabs but it takes time to go hard. Flat joints are overlayed and cut with a scalpel. I find that, if the glue was thin enough, there is no problem in scraping it a little an then applying more up to the join line. I think one of the problems is that, as the glue is 'instant', the assumption is that it will be quick. As with all things, to do the job properly, requires the right amount of time applied too.

However, considering the results you have achieved, I see no reason for not just carrying on the way you do it now.

[Qwin]

Thanks for the input on your gluing technique.

The reason I am considering changing is that the hot melt that the suppliers coat the veneer with is a light creamy colour.
This is ok on light coloured veneer, but on darker colours like the Walnut you can sometimes get a light colourd joint line at the edges.
This is a pain to try and eliminate or disguise. PVA dries clear and harder so I suspect it will be easier to sand and invisible, I havn't tried it yet so I am guesing. There is a YouTube tutorial from the woodworkers guild of America, or somthing similar sounding, that shows this technique and is what brought it to my attention. You coat both surfaces with PVA and let it dry. Position the veneer and press down with an iron. The heat melts the PVA like a hot melt so its like making your own iron on veneer. Sounds good in theory.

Like you said I am getting pretty good results now, just looking for the easiest opption for the future.

[Gordon Steadman]

Thanks for the input on your gluing technique.

The reason I am considering changing is that the hot melt that the suppliers coat the veneer with is a light creamy colour.
This is ok on light coloured veneer, but on darker colours like the Walnut you can sometimes get a light colourd joint line at the edges.
This is a pain to try and eliminate or disguise. PVA dries clear and harder so I suspect it will be easier to sand and invisible, I havn't tried it yet so I am guesing. There is a YouTube tutorial from the woodworkers guild of America, or somthing similar sounding, that shows this technique and is what brought it to my attention. You coat both surfaces with PVA and let it dry. Position the veneer and press down with an iron. The heat melts the PVA like a hot melt so its like making your own iron on veneer. Sounds good in theory.

Like you said I am getting pretty good results now, just looking for the easiest opption for the future.

Yup,

The theory sounds fine. I would be a bit nervous with very thin veneers though as they tend to wrinkle as soon as they get the slightest bit damp. The contact pulls them down flat. I'm not sure how the PVA will react. Only one way to find out!!