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Thread: The Tech' Gallery

  1. #201
    Join Date: Mar 2013

    Location: Philadelphia, PA

    Posts: 40
    I'm Packgrog.

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    Nothing spectacular to look at right now (apart from the Audiomods tonearm, which is currently back on my TecnoDec). Mods as shown (though not all visible):

    Funk Firm Achromat 1200
    Origin Live armboard
    Audiomods Classic tonearm
    Michell clamp
    Isonoe feet (silver)

    I went back to the TecnoDec because it sounds better than the Technics even with these mods. That said, I'm thinking of giving the Technics another whirl with some further mods, since setting the speed with the TecnoDec is kind of a PITA (involves unscrewing the power supply and making an adjustment inside of it while the damned thing is plugged in, kind of unnerving, and doesn't stay put over time). I was all ready to finally buy an Applied Fidelity bearing until I discovered today that Jim Howard passed away last week after a struggle with cancer. I may try the KAB power mods first if I can't find a more budget-friendly bearing option.

    Before any of that, though, I'm going to tinker more with the armboard. The mounting hardware that came with the Origin Live armboard provided no stability, and I ended up bending a couple of the provided washers since they were a bit too small and I couldn't get any rigidity without audible rattling. I asked them about the puny hardware, and they said it was necessary for best sound quality results. That lack of reliable stability drives me nuts, though. I have a sheet of Herbie's thin grungebuster that I'm going to try using as a gasket between the armboard and deck, and possibly as extra washers between the armboard/deck and bulkier mounting hardware seen in this photo. It might be better, it might be worse, or it might make no difference at all, leaving me with other issues needing to be addressed to try to get the sound a little closer to the TecnoDec without speed uncertainty. Anyone else done something special with the armboard mounting hardware?

    Oh yeah, and I do have a large metal washer as a spacer between armboard and arm base so that I can use the finger VTA lock (I tended to over-tighten the shorter lock when using a hex wrench), though this puts the arm high enough that no VTA adjustment is actually needed.
    Analog: VPI Scout Jr. | Phoenix Engineering Falcon PSU | DIY tach | Funk Firm Achromat | Michell Clamp | AT33PTG/II | Musical Surroundings Nova Phonomena | T.C. Electronic Desktop Konnekt 6 | Sonix IV ST136H Ultrasonic Cleaner | Okki Nokki Record Cleaning Machine

    Digital: iBasso D14

    Headphones: Lawton-modded Denon AH-D2000

  2. #202
    Join Date: Feb 2012

    Location: Falun, Sweden

    Posts: 2,245
    I'm Mike.

    Default The Tech' Gallery

    Hi there Packgrog (strange given name!)
    I was wondering if there are differences between the arm board for the Audio Mods or any other Rega Based arm?
    I have an SL-1210 MkII with the Origin Live armboard and an Audio Origami RB-250.
    My problem with this combo is that it may be a bit too firmly attached to the Techy chassis? They are attached like in a vice!
    I am still not convinced on the Techy and very much prefer either my OrbeSE or vintage Linn Sondek LP-12's
    Keep us posted!

  3. #203
    Join Date: Mar 2013

    Location: Philadelphia, PA

    Posts: 40
    I'm Packgrog.

    Default

    I believe that Jeff from Audiomods uses SoundSupports armboards, or at least seems to prefer them. It uses the standard Rega mounting distance even though the effective arm length is slightly different (simply means that Rega protractors don't work for it). I went for the OL board because I wanted to use a shim to allow me to use the finger VTA lock, and the SoundSupports boards, while less expensive, don't have as much room for shims. Probably should have just gotten a flat plate with the Rega mounting hole, but this was also more just an experiment. If I commit to just the Technics, I'll get the arm modded for the Technics-specific micrometer & integrated armboard. I'm just not at the point yet where I feel confident that the Technics will sound good enough to make a permanent change to my precious tonearm. :P

    As far as the "firmly attached" issue, that's part of what I'm hoping to address with the grungebuster gasket experiment, which I'll hopefully find time to attempt this weekend. Perhaps it will be too much damping, I don't know. Can't hurt to try.
    Analog: VPI Scout Jr. | Phoenix Engineering Falcon PSU | DIY tach | Funk Firm Achromat | Michell Clamp | AT33PTG/II | Musical Surroundings Nova Phonomena | T.C. Electronic Desktop Konnekt 6 | Sonix IV ST136H Ultrasonic Cleaner | Okki Nokki Record Cleaning Machine

    Digital: iBasso D14

    Headphones: Lawton-modded Denon AH-D2000

  4. #204
    Join Date: Aug 2016

    Location: London, UK

    Posts: 13
    I'm Bhavik.

    Default

    Hi All,

    New to the forum, here's my Technics, the spec is as follows:

    Technics 1210mk2 base
    2 x Vibro-Stop Platters
    Jelco SA-750D tonearm
    Ortofon 2M Blue Cart
    Pro-ject record weight
    Deflex Audio Feet






  5. #205
    Join Date: Mar 2013

    Location: Philadelphia, PA

    Posts: 40
    I'm Packgrog.

    Default

    Interesting... Are those Vibro-Stop mats solid acrylic, or do they seem to be the hard foam consistency of the Achromat? In other words, is it kind of lightweight foamboard with bubble holes visible along the outer edge, or is it solid, heavier plastic-y material?
    Analog: VPI Scout Jr. | Phoenix Engineering Falcon PSU | DIY tach | Funk Firm Achromat | Michell Clamp | AT33PTG/II | Musical Surroundings Nova Phonomena | T.C. Electronic Desktop Konnekt 6 | Sonix IV ST136H Ultrasonic Cleaner | Okki Nokki Record Cleaning Machine

    Digital: iBasso D14

    Headphones: Lawton-modded Denon AH-D2000

  6. #206
    Join Date: Aug 2016

    Location: London, UK

    Posts: 13
    I'm Bhavik.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Packgrog View Post
    Interesting... Are those Vibro-Stop mats solid acrylic, or do they seem to be the hard foam consistency of the Achromat? In other words, is it kind of lightweight foamboard with bubble holes visible along the outer edge, or is it solid, heavier plastic-y material?
    Hi Packgrog. The platters seem to be solid acrylic, they are pretty weighty.

  7. #207
    Join Date: Jun 2012

    Location: Stockport, UK

    Posts: 241
    I'm keiron.

    Default

    Nice clean look. Did you spray the platter black?

  8. #208
    Join Date: Aug 2016

    Location: London, UK

    Posts: 13
    I'm Bhavik.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by keiron99 View Post
    Nice clean look. Did you spray the platter black?
    Hey Keiron99,

    Yes the platter has been sprayed black. It does make it look quite clean and minimal.

  9. #209
    Join Date: Sep 2015

    Location: Montreal

    Posts: 3
    I'm Matthew.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BhavikLDN View Post
    Hey Keiron99,

    Yes the platter has been sprayed black. It does make it look quite clean and minimal.
    What kind of paint did you use?

  10. #210
    Join Date: Nov 2016

    Location: Serbia

    Posts: 5
    I'm Miljen.

    Default My 1210

    Hello.

    My name is Miljen, and I would like to introduce my Technics.
    It's basically 1210MK2, and I've bought it from previous owner with custom tonearm and tonearm base. The tonearm is vintage Micro Seiki MA701, with custom fixed aluminium headshell made on CNC machine based on the original MS headshell.
    Tonearm has been rewired with Cardas wires, and there is no breakage in wires from cartridge to DIN connector. Previous owner turned off pitch and light. I don't like how it was painted, but I'll deal with it in next few months. Techie came with thick rubber mat, but I've bought Reso-mat in hope to achieve better sound. I've also ordered Origin live damping feet. I currently don't have money to buy new platter or bearing, but I think these few little thing will make sound better. When I bought the turntable, the seller sold with it an old MC cartridge Ortofon MC15 Super II. It was a good cartridge in it's days but it's really old so I've ordered Nagaoka MP110, since I didn't have enough money to by 200, not to mention 300 or 500. But I think that MP200 stylus could be attached to 110 body, so in the future it gives me reasonable upgrade possibility.
    My phono preamp is ProJect PhonoBox II USB, and it really isn't good, especially with MC cartridge. Thinking of buying Schiit Mani, and use only MM cartridges. It seems really good for only 130$.
    I am open to suggestions regarding upgrades, changes, etc ...

    Miljen

    IMG_0141.jpg

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