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Thread: Musical Fidelity A100 and Quad 57s???

  1. #1
    Join Date: Oct 2011

    Location: Charente, France

    Posts: 3,531
    I'm Nodrog.

    Default Musical Fidelity A100 and Quad 57s???

    Now is the winter of our disc something or other!!

    My winter system is in place (damp in temporary music room discourages use of Quads for the winter). I have been using the Stereo 20 and some home builds. Having tried the phono section of the A100 to test the Pioneer PL112D, I found it a bit impressive.

    So, today, I bought the A100 down from the bedroom and plugged it into the main system. It may be because of the addition headroom - 50watts as opposed to around 8watts (valve watts of course) but it really suits the big old boxes with the 12" woofer, HF1300 and T27.

    Its a long time since I listened to anything but valves with the Quads but having had the experience of trannie amps raining their likkle bits in despair and expiring, I am a bit nervous. Has anyone experience of this combination? (Mr Arkless??)

    I am listening CD at the mo and whilst it still lacks that something, the two sounds seem closer than with the normal combination. I fancy listening to the A100 driving the Quads if it will do so safely - in the spring of course!!

  2. #2
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    It should be fine with the Quads but will be screaming for a complete re-cap by now.... As will any A100 or A1that hasnt been done.... They fry their capacitors to put it bluntly....
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  3. #3
    Join Date: Oct 2011

    Location: Charente, France

    Posts: 3,531
    I'm Nodrog.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    It should be fine with the Quads but will be screaming for a complete re-cap by now.... As will any A100 or A1that hasnt been done.... They fry their capacitors to put it bluntly....
    Hmmm... I wonder if I can think of anyone out here who does that sort of thing???? Have to give it some deep thought. Alternatively, of course, I could try it myself if its just like for like. I have often wondered how you get the damn things open. Looking again, I see some small screws on the top, presumably thats the way in. The pots could do with a clean and I fancy doing something about the quarter inch wobble on the volume control too!!

  4. #4
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: The Black Country

    Posts: 6,089
    I'm Alan.

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    Looks like a very interesting amplifier, with some impressive heritage.
    I wouldn`t have thought there would be any problem with driving the 57s Gordon.

    Alan
    I love Hendrix for so many reasons. He was so much more than just a blues guitarist - he played damn well any kind of guitar he wanted. In fact I'm not sure if he even played the guitar - he played music. - Stevie Ray Vaughan

  5. #5
    Join Date: Oct 2011

    Location: Charente, France

    Posts: 3,531
    I'm Nodrog.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebottle View Post
    Looks like a very interesting amplifier, with some impressive heritage.
    I wouldn`t have thought there would be any problem with driving the 57s Gordon.

    Alan
    It sounds much better than I expected. Its never had extended use here but always sounds fine in the bedroom system. Mr.Paravicini has a lot to answer for it seems - he gets everywhere.

    Good to hear from you. How's Blighty treating you?

  6. #6
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 31,850
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon Steadman View Post
    Hmmm... I wonder if I can think of anyone out here who does that sort of thing???? Have to give it some deep thought. Alternatively, of course, I could try it myself if its just like for like. I have often wondered how you get the damn things open. Looking again, I see some small screws on the top, presumably thats the way in. The pots could do with a clean and I fancy doing something about the quarter inch wobble on the volume control too!!
    The A1 was notorious for the 'knob wobble' as well. Why is it that British designed amps often have superb styling aesethics, yet are let down by the lousy 'feel' of the control knobs, switches and buttons? It wasn't always like that - the Quad 22 and 33 had a good feel to the controls fitted.

    Anyway back to the OP - yes, the re-capped MF A100 ought to be a very good match with the '57s.
    Barry

  7. #7
    Join Date: Oct 2011

    Location: Charente, France

    Posts: 3,531
    I'm Nodrog.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry View Post
    The A1 was notorious for the 'knob wobble' as well. Why is it that British designed amps often have superb styling aesethics, yet are let down by the lousy 'feel' of the control knobs, switches and buttons? It wasn't always like that - the Quad 22 and 33 had a good feel to the controls fitted.

    Anyway back to the OP - yes, the re-capped MF A100 ought to be a very good match with the '57s.
    Thanks Barry,

    The amp with the best 'feel' in our household is the wife's Pioneer A757. The controls are silky smooth and the whole thing feels solid and indestructable. As you say the old Quads felt pretty good too especially the 2 series. The A100 volume control doesn't seem to have a very long shaft. I wonder why there is so much movement. It seems worthwhile to keep the amp going. There have been very few that come close to the Leak (and now Firebottle) but this one sounds very good indeed.

  8. #8
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: Kingston, Surrey, UK

    Posts: 774
    I'm Alex.

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    Hi,

    I always loved my A 100 and still have it sitting upstairs gathering dust. It needs a new volume pot but the caps still seem ok and it sounds fine. My A100 was in use with a pair of ES14s, which was a good match. I don't know if the quads need any particular characteristics in terms of current capability but I don't see why it shouldn't work well in principle.

    Regards,
    Alex
    Technics SL1210| Jelco SA-750| Benz Micro ACE SM MC| Squeezebox Touch/MCRU linear PSU | Cambridge Audio 851C | High Resolution Music Streamer II+ / Linestreamer+ | Raspberry Pi 2/IQ-Audio DAC+ / Max2Play | Conrad-Johnson ET3 Control Amplifier| Conrad-Johnson LP125sa KT120 Power Amplifier| Avalon NP Evo 2.0 Speakers| Cardas Audio Quadlink-5C Speaker Cables and Interconnects| Finite Elemente Pagode Signature E-14 equipment support

  9. #9
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: Kingston, Surrey, UK

    Posts: 774
    I'm Alex.

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    Gordon,
    Remove the volume knob, then the screws under the face plate, then the four Allen keys in the top panel and then the remaining screws on the face plate (if I recall). Don't forget to get a new tube of heat sink grease as the old stuff will have dried up. Mine had about 10 times too much applied from the factory. A drop or two of oil in the fan bearings will help quieten them down no end too.

    Regards,
    Alex

    P.s. I don't know if the later ones were biased more conservatively... Mine was an early model and got ridiculously hot on top. A friend had a later model and it ran much cooler.... live fast, die young I suppose!
    Technics SL1210| Jelco SA-750| Benz Micro ACE SM MC| Squeezebox Touch/MCRU linear PSU | Cambridge Audio 851C | High Resolution Music Streamer II+ / Linestreamer+ | Raspberry Pi 2/IQ-Audio DAC+ / Max2Play | Conrad-Johnson ET3 Control Amplifier| Conrad-Johnson LP125sa KT120 Power Amplifier| Avalon NP Evo 2.0 Speakers| Cardas Audio Quadlink-5C Speaker Cables and Interconnects| Finite Elemente Pagode Signature E-14 equipment support

  10. #10
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    To get the lid off remove the Allen bolts or screws then place a magazine or similar on the top and hit it very hard with a large mallet.... (yes seriously!)
    I'm sure this is about the 3rd time I've posted this here and it keeps disappearing...... weird!
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

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