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Thread: Car (or bike) Chat!

  1. #1221
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Glasgowshire

    Posts: 9,656
    I'm Gary.

    Default

    Hey Marco,

    By "straight through" he was meaning removing the mid-box and running a pipe straight to the back boxes.
    The Brabster will still have back boxes probably, just better than stock ones maybe?
    Otherwise your car would be 100+ db without any kind of muffling!

    Aye, V-Power for this guy, occasionally Tesco 99 when I cant be arsed driving longer to the Shell petrol station.
    You really notice the difference between the good stuff and the "whatever" stuff.

    My exhaust guy does bespoke design work, he's famous for it and has replaced stock exhausts in some rather exotic cars, so I trusted his judgement when he said "use what you have, just make it better".
    He seemed genuinely surprised when I gave it the beans, big confused smile on his face.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Good advice, Gaz, but as I understand it, a straight through system involves doing away with the back boxes... That's certainly what happened with the Brabster, when I had a straight through quad SS system fitted, and the old back boxes were left lying on the floor after the job was done, so I'm not quite sure how they're going to achieve what has been suggested?

    In my view, a good exhaust fitter should be able to create a bespoke system, tailored to produce the sound you want, by tuning how the pipes are installed. However, if the back boxes are key to the 'Alfa sound', then those could be retained and used in conjunction with stainless-steel pipes, thus preventing those from rusting again in future. That's what I'd be doing.

    Also, in terms of mapping, fitting the new exhaust system shouldn't make too much difference. You should feel a small improvement in performance afterwards, simply due to having allowed the engine to 'breathe' better, and you can always take the car back to whoever mapped it and ask them if they think any small adjustments are necessary, in order to fine-tune and maximise performance.

    Are you still filling the car with proper petrol?

    Marco.
    AC POWER
    Hardwired 10kVA balanced mains powering entire system
    AMPS
    Meridian 557 power Amp (Modded) / PS Audio BHK Preamp (Modded)
    SPEAKERS
    Wharfedale Evo 4.4
    DAC
    PS Audio Directstream (Modded)
    TURNTABLE
    Pro-Ject X8 balanced output via XLR / Ortofon Quintet Blue cartridge
    PHONOSTAGE
    Pro-Ject DS3 B balanced Input (TT and Phonostage powered by Pro-Ject Power box RS2 linear psu)
    DIGITAL
    OPPO 203 (Modded: Linear PSU, i2s output to Dac) - Roon Endpoint, HDMI input used for all things Streaming/ PS5 /AppleTV ... also good for movies apparently?
    MUSIC PLAYBACK
    Tweaked AP-Linux based Roon Server into Oppo 203 as Roon endpoint
    Ipad Roon Remote.
    Apple Music/ YouTube via AppleTV, fed to Dac via Oppo HDMI input/i2s output to Dac.
    SPEAKER CABLES
    Biwired: Duelund DCA10GA (Bass) Duelund DCA16GA (mid & treble) Duelund 12DCA used as jumpers (On
    "Blackcat Cable" Chris Sommivigo's advice - yup, even with biwire it sounds better - and it does)
    INTERCONNECTS
    All Balanced: Ghost+ recording studio XLR cables

  2. #1222
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gazjam View Post
    Hey Marco,

    By "straight through" he was meaning removing the mid-box and running a pipe straight to the back boxes.
    The Brabster will still have back boxes probably, just better than stock ones maybe?
    Otherwise your car would be 100+ db without any kind of muffling!
    It's different on a diesel, Gaz, as you can't get the same noise out of them, with a bespoke exhaust system, as you can with a petrol car. Plus, Mercs are designed to be mega-quiet, as they're seen as a 'sedate' kind of car, certainly in stock form.

    Therefore, I got away with removing the back boxes on the Brabster, so that the exhaust system is completely straight-through, without it being too noisy. It just produces a rather nice 'burble', when the engine's ticking over, and a deep, throaty roar when you accelerate!

    It's also had a DPF delete [a MAJOR performance bottleneck], but not an EGR one (as that would make the exhaust emissions too smelly) - and that, in conjunction with the sports remap and straight-through quad SS performance exhaust system, made a BIG difference to the power that the engine produces. A further improvement again was achieved when I had the turbo fully refurbished, with new bearings fitted, etc, and the injectors professionally cleaned and serviced.

    It's a total rocket ship now!!

    Aye, V-Power for this guy, occasionally Tesco 99 when I cant be arsed driving longer to the Shell petrol station.
    You really notice the difference between the good stuff and the "whatever" stuff.
    Nice one - keep it up! You've had it Terracleaned too, haven't you?

    My exhaust guy does bespoke design work, he's famous for it and has replaced stock exhausts in some rather exotic cars, so I trusted his judgement when he said "use what you have, just make it better".
    He seemed genuinely surprised when I gave it the beans, big confused smile on his face.
    Lol - quality... Fair enough, I was just thinking of permanently sealing the system (excluding the boxes) from rust, which would be the case if you had SS pipes fitted. The performance SS exhaust system I chose is from Longlife: https://www.longlife.co.uk/performance

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  3. #1223
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Glasgowshire

    Posts: 9,656
    I'm Gary.

    Default

    Hear you on sealing the system mate, the backboxes are already stainless, whats rusted and (now) cracked is the stock Y-Piece fitted to the car from the factory.
    Getting the rest of the system rebuilt so will be rust proof, all good.
    An MOT advisory has flagged this up, and I'm planning on keeping the car till it dies so probably a good investment going forward.
    Yup, Terracleaning did the business for me, got it repmapped and a K&N sports air filter fitted soon after and enjoyed the improvement.

    Hoping a more efficient exhaust will bring some benefit too?
    Maybe a "synergy" thing with all the other stuff done to it, who knows...


    ,
    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    It's different on a diesel, Gaz, as you can't get the same noise out of them, with a bespoke exhaust system, as you can with a petrol car. Plus, Mercs are engineered to be mega-quiet, as they're seen as a more 'sedate' kind of car, certainly in stock form.

    Therefore, I got away with removing the back boxes on the Brabster, so the exhaust system is completely straight-through, without it being too noisy. It just produces a rather nice 'burble', when the engine's ticking over, and a deep, throaty roar when you accelerate!

    It's also had a DPF delete, but not an EGR one (as that would make it smelly) - and that, in conjunction with the sports remap and straight-through quad SS exhaust system, made a BIG difference to the power that the engine produces. A further improvement again was achieved when I had the turbo fully refurbished, with new bearings fitted, etc, and the injectors professionally cleaned and serviced.

    It's a total rocket ship now!!



    Nice one - keep it up! You've had it Terracleaned too, haven't you?



    Lol - quality... Fair enough, I was just thinking of permanently sealing the system (excluding the boxes) from rust, which would be the case if you had SS pipes fitted. My performance SS exhaust system is from Longlife: https://www.longlife.co.uk/performance

    Marco.
    AC POWER
    Hardwired 10kVA balanced mains powering entire system
    AMPS
    Meridian 557 power Amp (Modded) / PS Audio BHK Preamp (Modded)
    SPEAKERS
    Wharfedale Evo 4.4
    DAC
    PS Audio Directstream (Modded)
    TURNTABLE
    Pro-Ject X8 balanced output via XLR / Ortofon Quintet Blue cartridge
    PHONOSTAGE
    Pro-Ject DS3 B balanced Input (TT and Phonostage powered by Pro-Ject Power box RS2 linear psu)
    DIGITAL
    OPPO 203 (Modded: Linear PSU, i2s output to Dac) - Roon Endpoint, HDMI input used for all things Streaming/ PS5 /AppleTV ... also good for movies apparently?
    MUSIC PLAYBACK
    Tweaked AP-Linux based Roon Server into Oppo 203 as Roon endpoint
    Ipad Roon Remote.
    Apple Music/ YouTube via AppleTV, fed to Dac via Oppo HDMI input/i2s output to Dac.
    SPEAKER CABLES
    Biwired: Duelund DCA10GA (Bass) Duelund DCA16GA (mid & treble) Duelund 12DCA used as jumpers (On
    "Blackcat Cable" Chris Sommivigo's advice - yup, even with biwire it sounds better - and it does)
    INTERCONNECTS
    All Balanced: Ghost+ recording studio XLR cables

  4. #1224
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gazjam View Post
    Hear you on sealing the system mate, the backboxes are already stainless, whats rusted and (now) cracked is the stock Y-Piece fitted to the car from the factory.
    Getting the rest of the system rebuilt so will be rust proof, all good.
    Yup, that's why it makes sense to have SS pipes fitted *now*, including a Y-piece, thus permanently sealing the whole system from rust. I'd defo discuss that point with your man

    Hoping a more efficient exhaust will bring some benefit too?
    Maybe a "synergy" thing with all the other stuff done to it, who knows...
    It should provide a bit more 'shove', when you accelerate, and also improve smoothness, but defo speak to your re-map man and ask him if he thinks that some fine-tuning to the map will be needed after the new exhaust system has been fitted.

    If you want to tweak things further, you can get success by playing around with different engine oils, and just like with fuel, finding those that work best with your car's engine (check out the ester-based racing oils, of the correct viscosity, for max performance), and that also applies to coolants. I use this stuff in the Brabster: http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/Coola...power_cool_180

    Not cheap, but a water-less coolant system is permanent, so saves you money in the long run, especially in your situation where you're going to be keeping the car for a while, and I've found that the Evans stuff also improves performance.

    And of course with a petrol engine, the world of 'performance' spark plugs is opened up to you... NGK Iridium IX is what I'd be using in your car: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...ugs/iridium-ix



    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  5. #1225
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Glasgowshire

    Posts: 9,656
    I'm Gary.

    Default

    All good, thanks mate.


    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Yup, that's why it makes sense to have SS pipes fitted *now*, including a Y-piece, thus permanently sealing the whole system from rust. I'd defo discuss that point with your man



    It should provide a bit more 'shove', when you accelerate, and also improve smoothness, but defo speak to your re-map man and ask him if he thinks that some fine-tuning to the map will be needed after the new exhaust system has been fitted.

    If you want to tweak things further, you can get success by playing around with different engine oils, and just like with fuel, finding those that work best with your car (look at the ester-based racing oils, of the correct viscosity, for max performance), and that also applies to coolants. I use this stuff in the Brabster: http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/Coola...power_cool_180

    Not cheap, but a water-less coolant system is permanent, so saves you money in the long run, especially in your situation where you're going to be keeping the car for a while, and I've found that the Evans stuff also improves performance.

    And of course with a petrol engine, the world of 'performance' spark plugs is opened up to you... NGK Iridium IX is what I'd be using in your car: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...ugs/iridium-ix



    Marco.
    AC POWER
    Hardwired 10kVA balanced mains powering entire system
    AMPS
    Meridian 557 power Amp (Modded) / PS Audio BHK Preamp (Modded)
    SPEAKERS
    Wharfedale Evo 4.4
    DAC
    PS Audio Directstream (Modded)
    TURNTABLE
    Pro-Ject X8 balanced output via XLR / Ortofon Quintet Blue cartridge
    PHONOSTAGE
    Pro-Ject DS3 B balanced Input (TT and Phonostage powered by Pro-Ject Power box RS2 linear psu)
    DIGITAL
    OPPO 203 (Modded: Linear PSU, i2s output to Dac) - Roon Endpoint, HDMI input used for all things Streaming/ PS5 /AppleTV ... also good for movies apparently?
    MUSIC PLAYBACK
    Tweaked AP-Linux based Roon Server into Oppo 203 as Roon endpoint
    Ipad Roon Remote.
    Apple Music/ YouTube via AppleTV, fed to Dac via Oppo HDMI input/i2s output to Dac.
    SPEAKER CABLES
    Biwired: Duelund DCA10GA (Bass) Duelund DCA16GA (mid & treble) Duelund 12DCA used as jumpers (On
    "Blackcat Cable" Chris Sommivigo's advice - yup, even with biwire it sounds better - and it does)
    INTERCONNECTS
    All Balanced: Ghost+ recording studio XLR cables

  6. #1226
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 6,562
    I'm Kevin.

    Default

    If you think that coolant makes a difference to the performance, then remove the mechanically driven one, and fit an electric pump. That will make a bigger difference...
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  7. #1227
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Lol.... Aye, I'll throw that one past my specialist mechanic next time I see him!

    The Evans stuff does seem to improve performance, as I felt the difference when the previous water-based coolant was flushed out and replaced with it. See here: http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/PDS/4...r_cool_180.pdf

    Quote Originally Posted by Evans
    Maximise BHP. Evans Waterless Coolants eliminate pre-ignition and detonation caused by overheating - thus increasing combustion efficiency and delivering more power.
    That's certainly what I discovered

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  8. #1228
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 6,562
    I'm Kevin.

    Default

    Do you not think that Mercedes and Brabus would make sure that the cooling system of your car worked correctly?

    It’s also a diesel, so pre-ignition does not happen, as there is not sufficient heat to ignite the mixture until you arrive at the correct point of compression.
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  9. #1229
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CageyH View Post
    Do you not think that Mercedes and Brabus would make sure that the cooling system of your car worked correctly?
    Sure, but that would've been the case with the engine, before it was re-mapped, or the exhaust system, the wheels, brakes, suspension or anything else I've modified and successfully improved since. There's a difference between 'working correctly', and working optimally!

    Most cars possess some degree of latent performance potential, waiting to be judiciously released...

    It’s also a diesel, so pre-ignition does not happen, as there is not sufficient heat to ignite the mixture until you arrive at the correct point of compression.
    Fair point, but as they always say: 'the proof of the pudding is in the eating', and I definitely experienced an increase in engine responsiveness after installing the Evans coolant, so it must've improved something. It's the same with hi-fi... After all, some folks don't think that cables make a difference!

    I don't give a toss what anyone thinks; ultimately I'll always trust my own senses and judgement more than anything else, so care not a jot about what *should* happen, only what my experience tells me has happened - and that applies to everything in life.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  10. #1230
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default Engine oil

    Gaz, for reference, this is what I use in the Brabster. It's really good stuff, and Opie are fab to deal with:

    https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-867-mot...ngine-oil.aspx

    Next time a service is due, fire some of that in and fit a set of those NGKs - and you'll give the Brera even more va-va VOOM!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


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