+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 7 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 69

Thread: Techy board - re-capping

  1. #1
    Join Date: Dec 2011

    Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne

    Posts: 531
    I'm Graeme.

    Default Techy board - re-capping

    Hi,

    can someone tell me where I can send my techie to to get the board re-capped and cleaned up etc..

    I've spent the last 15 mins looking at various threads without a definite answer... HELP ME I AM MELTING (my eyes are).

    I am in Edinburgh so someone local or within Scotland is pref'd

    Thanks
    I can whistle with my fingers, especially if I have a whistle.

  2. #2
    Join Date: Jan 2010

    Location: Oxford

    Posts: 872
    I'm NotSoPissedOffNowCosMyHiFisUnpacked.

    Default

    I can do it for the cost of the parts and a beer if you are prepared to remove and send it to me
    Ian
    http://www.hifisounds.co.uk

    Photo bucket - loads of mods!

    SL1200- DIY PSU- DIY FET int regs-Denon DL103 by Expert Stylus Company on Isokenetic stabiliser & Sumiko HS-12 shell- Achromat - Isonoe feet, Meridian 200 Phono satge, Junson JA-88D, Audio Aero Capitole CD/ DAC, extreme modified Marantz SA7001, Squeezebox Touch modded to death!, Focal 826WSE- Kimber 8TC, Kimber and CAT5 attenuated DIY Interconnects, Kimber mains

    "Leave Nothing as Standard"

  3. #3
    Join Date: Dec 2011

    Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne

    Posts: 531
    I'm Graeme.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by UV101 View Post
    I can do it for the cost of the parts and a beer if you are prepared to remove and send it to me
    ok that's a smashing offer!! thank you..

    do I need anything to do this as I am a total noob electronically.. apart from rewiring a plug and building a pc. eg I dont have a solder iron or anything.

    thanks mate, really appreciate this.

    G
    I can whistle with my fingers, especially if I have a whistle.

  4. #4
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: Cupar, Fife, UK

    Posts: 271
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    If you're taking things apart might be an ideal time to put the power supply in an external box so it is away from the deck...

  5. #5
    Join Date: Jan 2010

    Location: Oxford

    Posts: 872
    I'm NotSoPissedOffNowCosMyHiFisUnpacked.

    Default

    Hi,

    From memory, most cables just unplug from the main pcb.

    The only one you'll need to check is the front left as you look at the PCB which will be the 2 yellow (?) cables coming from the power pcb. The other thing you'll need to do is unscrew the regulator output transistor from the chassis which is the 3 pin device towards the back screwed in via a clamp.

    There are several places on the forum explaining how to disassemble the deck.

    But from memory.....
    UPLUG FROM THE MAINS!!!!!
    Remove the cartridge and store safely
    Remove the lid
    Remove the mat and lift off the platter (should just lift off but may stick to start with)
    Remove the 6 (?) screws from the black cover and lift off the cover
    Remove the 3 screws holding the PCB and bearing on the chassis
    Remove the 2 (?) screws holding the regulator output device to the chassis (towards the rear of the deck)
    Unplug the 3 connectors (front, right side and back)
    disconnect the supply in (front left - may be soldered and twisted onto metal posts)

    You should now be able to remove the pcb

    At work at the mo so limited access to photo's but have a look under the hood and check those connectors front left to see if you can disconnect them without an iron
    Ian
    http://www.hifisounds.co.uk

    Photo bucket - loads of mods!

    SL1200- DIY PSU- DIY FET int regs-Denon DL103 by Expert Stylus Company on Isokenetic stabiliser & Sumiko HS-12 shell- Achromat - Isonoe feet, Meridian 200 Phono satge, Junson JA-88D, Audio Aero Capitole CD/ DAC, extreme modified Marantz SA7001, Squeezebox Touch modded to death!, Focal 826WSE- Kimber 8TC, Kimber and CAT5 attenuated DIY Interconnects, Kimber mains

    "Leave Nothing as Standard"

  6. #6
    Join Date: Jan 2010

    Location: Oxford

    Posts: 872
    I'm NotSoPissedOffNowCosMyHiFisUnpacked.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike g View Post
    If you're taking things apart might be an ideal time to put the power supply in an external box so it is away from the deck...
    I'd agree......there is a very good thread about it here....I guess it depends on the confidence level.

    http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8118
    Ian
    http://www.hifisounds.co.uk

    Photo bucket - loads of mods!

    SL1200- DIY PSU- DIY FET int regs-Denon DL103 by Expert Stylus Company on Isokenetic stabiliser & Sumiko HS-12 shell- Achromat - Isonoe feet, Meridian 200 Phono satge, Junson JA-88D, Audio Aero Capitole CD/ DAC, extreme modified Marantz SA7001, Squeezebox Touch modded to death!, Focal 826WSE- Kimber 8TC, Kimber and CAT5 attenuated DIY Interconnects, Kimber mains

    "Leave Nothing as Standard"

  7. #7
    Join Date: Dec 2011

    Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne

    Posts: 531
    I'm Graeme.

    Default

    thanks Guys, once I've done the neccessary I will PM you for payment details and address etc.

    really appreciate this by the way thank you.

    G
    I can whistle with my fingers, especially if I have a whistle.

  8. #8
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,325
    I'm Andrew.

    Default

    Graeme,

    Do you really need to re-cap your 1210? How old is it? I had mine recapped and noticed a massive difference it takes about 6-8 weeks for things to bed down. Its a modification that is rarely done considering the amount of tech-head we have here on the AOS forum.

    A
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  9. #9
    Join Date: Jan 2010

    Location: Oxford

    Posts: 872
    I'm NotSoPissedOffNowCosMyHiFisUnpacked.

    Default

    Just to be clear, there are a few caps that will benefit from a change to the original spec even from new.

    Some of the purely digital rails will benefit from extremely low impedance and esr solid polymer electrolytics and other rails with better quality Rubycon Z series caps. The main smoother can be upgraded to something much bigger in capacitance too.

    There are only a few caps that will make any difference and the total cost is likely to be sub £20 in parts.

    If for any reason you're not happy with the results i'll gladly put the board back to standard
    Ian
    http://www.hifisounds.co.uk

    Photo bucket - loads of mods!

    SL1200- DIY PSU- DIY FET int regs-Denon DL103 by Expert Stylus Company on Isokenetic stabiliser & Sumiko HS-12 shell- Achromat - Isonoe feet, Meridian 200 Phono satge, Junson JA-88D, Audio Aero Capitole CD/ DAC, extreme modified Marantz SA7001, Squeezebox Touch modded to death!, Focal 826WSE- Kimber 8TC, Kimber and CAT5 attenuated DIY Interconnects, Kimber mains

    "Leave Nothing as Standard"

  10. #10
    Join Date: Jan 2012

    Location: hampshire

    Posts: 137
    I'm Gren.

    Default

    Could we not have a thread started with components needed and a few photos of components that are ripe for upgrading. For the more DIY able?
    System Sources: Naim cdx2-2, Sonos and AppleTV, SL1210 Mk2 the journey, so far isonoe feet and sumiko headshell, Jelco SA750D. Mike New bearing,bonded baseplate and copper armboard, now installed. Paul Hynes PSUSR7EHD-21/27, funk achromat .

    Pre-amp: Teddy Pardo PR1

    Power Teddy Pardo 2xMB100's

    Other: Focal Electra 1028be

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 7 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •