Lovely job that Ken- when can you do my Techie?
Lovely job that Ken- when can you do my Techie?
System; Michell Gyrodec SE/ Orbe Clamp/ Gert Pedersen armboard mod/ HR PSU/ SME V / J7 Tonearm cable/Ortofon Cadenza Black// Jez Arkless Turbo nutter B------ /Trichord Dino+
Amplification and loudspeaker set up is at the moment being split into two groups, comprising the following;
1. Same sources as above; SONY TAF-770ES/SONY CDP761E/Cable Talk 3.1 loudspeakercable/ Harbeth Compact7ES2/ Stands
2. Virtue Audio Sensation M451battery PSU, ClarityCaps upgrade/ Sensation M901/Russian PIO caps with Teflon bypass caps upgrade/ JT Dynamic PSU with various tweaks/ Connex Audio 5N Litz loudspeaker cable, Impulse H6 Loudspeakers.
Me so horny- Impulse H6 Horny
Much as I would like to make a bunch of these, my kitchen is not up to starting a production line.
Settled on Danish oil for the finish and got the first coat on. There is a technique I came accross on YouTube using this for grain filling. Once the first coat has had 24hrs to dry you rub it down with 600 grit wet and dry using some more Danish Oil. You work it up to a paste and scrape off the excess with a piece of card etc. Go accross the grain and it leaves the holes filled with the Oil/wood paste, this gives a perfect match as you are filling it with the same wood. I tried it this morning and it works a treat. My own slant on this was to also have a spare piece of veneer on a scrap board and work up some past off this and then apply it to any deep grain or bits I had missed. I used a business card to apply the paste.
This will now need another 24hrs to dry and then several coates of oil to build the finish, with the same interval between each. I won't bore you with successive pictures of the process, I'll just do a bunch of the finished article.
System; Michell Gyrodec SE/ Orbe Clamp/ Gert Pedersen armboard mod/ HR PSU/ SME V / J7 Tonearm cable/Ortofon Cadenza Black// Jez Arkless Turbo nutter B------ /Trichord Dino+
Amplification and loudspeaker set up is at the moment being split into two groups, comprising the following;
1. Same sources as above; SONY TAF-770ES/SONY CDP761E/Cable Talk 3.1 loudspeakercable/ Harbeth Compact7ES2/ Stands
2. Virtue Audio Sensation M451battery PSU, ClarityCaps upgrade/ Sensation M901/Russian PIO caps with Teflon bypass caps upgrade/ JT Dynamic PSU with various tweaks/ Connex Audio 5N Litz loudspeaker cable, Impulse H6 Loudspeakers.
Me so horny- Impulse H6 Horny
Ok then, here is the veneer after the grain filling, it dulled down when this was done.
The oil darkened the Walnut when it was wetted, though its hard to tell in the bright light outside.
System; Michell Gyrodec SE/ Orbe Clamp/ Gert Pedersen armboard mod/ HR PSU/ SME V / J7 Tonearm cable/Ortofon Cadenza Black// Jez Arkless Turbo nutter B------ /Trichord Dino+
Amplification and loudspeaker set up is at the moment being split into two groups, comprising the following;
1. Same sources as above; SONY TAF-770ES/SONY CDP761E/Cable Talk 3.1 loudspeakercable/ Harbeth Compact7ES2/ Stands
2. Virtue Audio Sensation M451battery PSU, ClarityCaps upgrade/ Sensation M901/Russian PIO caps with Teflon bypass caps upgrade/ JT Dynamic PSU with various tweaks/ Connex Audio 5N Litz loudspeaker cable, Impulse H6 Loudspeakers.
Me so horny- Impulse H6 Horny
Gave another oil wet sanding after the grain filling using 800 grit, then applied the first finishing coat of the Danish Oil, the grain is rely starting to get depth to it and has that flip flop change of colour when you view it at different angles. For some reason, it looks darker in the flesh than in the pictures, especially under artificial light.
I used “Liberon” Superior Danish Oil – This has UV protection built in, which most Danish oils don’t have. I used the natural finish, without any tinting stain added. The oil is straw coloured and the consistancy of white spirit, just wipe it on with a lint free cloth.
Boy is that looking good !!! If it also does give the Techie something 'special' over the stock plinth in terms of sonics then you are going to be a very busy man with offers and requests for one of these coming from all angles
Congratulations Ken - your plinth looks fantastic. I guess you'll need to re-apply a coat or two of Danish Oil every few months to keep that level of finish as veneer isn't really thick enough to absorb enough oil. Can't wait to see the finished turntable and your comments on its performance. Top job.
Keith
Analogue: Lenco L75 with 'PTP5' top plate in heavy birch ply plinth/re-wired Rega RB300/SAE 1000e HOMC Cartridge/Trans-Fi Reso-Mat/Moth RCM
Files: Voyage MPD/Custom PC/Supra USB/Beresford ASYNCH-1/Beresford TOSlink cable
CDP: Inca Katana SE
DAC: Beresford Caiman MkII (LiPo Battery powered)
Pre-Amp: Croft Micro 25 Power-Amp: Croft Series 7
Speakers: DIY Frugel-Horn Mk3 ('FH3') + REL Strata subwoofer
Headphones: Beyer Dynamics DT990 Pro (250 ohm)/Schiit Asgard Headphone Amp
Cables - Interconnects: Mark Grant G1000HD Speaker Cables: Van Damme Blue
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Bedroom System: Raspberry Pi/Raspbrian + MPD/HiFiBerry DAC/Topping TP20 Mk2/Mission 760i or DIY Hybrid Valve-MOSFET Headphone amp + Sennheiser HD595
Gallery
Keith - I'm new to the oiling process but my brief research seemed to sugest that Danish Oil is based on the ancient Tung Oil extracted from the nut. I believe it also has about 20% varnish in its make up, so the finish may be more durable than a straight oil. See Wikipedea entry: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danish_oil
I am still expecting to have to re-coat but whether this is once a year or more I do not know. Do you have any experience of Danish oil?
Last edited by Qwin; 31-03-2013 at 20:41.
Location: Lancaster(-ish), UK
Posts: 16,937
I'm ChrisB.
The finish is durable, but only if you buff the bejeezus out of the final coat. Much pressure, elbow grease and clean buffing cloth is required.
Also, watch how you store and dispose of all the cloths you use to apply it because they can spontaneously combust.