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Thread: Swap electrolytic capacitors for solid state

  1. #1
    Join Date: Mar 2012

    Location: huddersfield

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    I'm mark.

    Default Swap electrolytic capacitors for solid state

    Hi and thanks for reading this post.

    Do you think it would be a good idea to replace the usual aluminium electrolytic capacitors on a Zero dac digital to analogue convertor board for the better specs of a solid state (polymer) type capacitor.

    I have 4 aluminium electrolytic's around the dac chip (47uf 35v) which are swollen and leaking, and 4x 10uf 63v output coupling caps in the analog section, so 8 caps to replace in all, do you think a like for like replacement of the stock aluminium electrolytics for solid state polymer type caps would be okay in this situation.

    I have done a google search and people have performed this on pc motherboards but there is not much on other types of equipment.

    Many thanks in advance. John.

  2. #2
    MartinT Guest

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    I don't think the polymers are particularly good sounding. Their strength is the small size, ideal for PC motherboards.

    For good sound, you should be looking for Black Gates (almost impossible to find nowadays), Elna Cerafine II or Nichicon MUSE.

  3. #3
    Join Date: Jan 2010

    Location: Oxford

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    I'm NotSoPissedOffNowCosMyHiFisUnpacked.

    Default

    I disagree about the solid polymer!!

    I have a 1 or 2 BG's left kicking about and they are always my 1st choice on everything.

    Without BG's I always use OsCon SEPC on digital rails but I use Cerefine (black ones not old the older red) on analogue rails. I dont really like Muse.

    I would identify the pins on the DAC chip and work out whats analogue and whats digital. Use the very small SEPC 470uF for all rails if they are through hole :-)

    This is the transport in my SA7001. The caps on the left are the SEPC. I have about 20 of them on the transport now


    And The DAC is bottom left in this pic. The caps are a mix of SEPC, Black Gate and Cerefine.


    If you post a photo of the offending area, I'll gladly offer my opinion
    Ian
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  4. #4
    Join Date: May 2009

    Location: Stäfa (near Zürich), Switzerland

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    I'm Richard.

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    I've recently replaced less than 22uf value electrolytics with polystyrene caps in a tuner and integrated amp (A&R A60/T21) very successfully.

    Richard

  5. #5
    Join Date: Jan 2010

    Location: Oxford

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    Quote Originally Posted by dowser View Post
    I've recently replaced less than 22uf value electrolytics with polystyrene caps in a tuner and integrated amp (A&R A60/T21) very successfully.

    Richard
    Polystyrene caps are normally very low in value (nF and pF) and used in filter circuits. I'm not aware of having seen any approaching 22uF. Did you mean polymer?
    Ian
    http://www.hifisounds.co.uk

    Photo bucket - loads of mods!

    SL1200- DIY PSU- DIY FET int regs-Denon DL103 by Expert Stylus Company on Isokenetic stabiliser & Sumiko HS-12 shell- Achromat - Isonoe feet, Meridian 200 Phono satge, Junson JA-88D, Audio Aero Capitole CD/ DAC, extreme modified Marantz SA7001, Squeezebox Touch modded to death!, Focal 826WSE- Kimber 8TC, Kimber and CAT5 attenuated DIY Interconnects, Kimber mains

    "Leave Nothing as Standard"

  6. #6
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...

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    I'm David.

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    If the replacements end up being electrolytics, I'd recommend higher voltage versions which should prevent swelling and leaking for some considerable time and possibly higher temp ones too, which I believe have better general characteristics anyway (hope I'm right here?)
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  7. #7
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: Yorks

    Posts: 16,643
    I'm Nobody.

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    When i re-built my old 'A60' I remember using the New (At the time) Oscons (Their are different types, suited to different applications), fitted these in the phonostage, they wer'nt very high voltage rating but they were very low ESR. I also remember fitting the old but good Suflex Polystyrenes.

  8. #8
    Join Date: Mar 2012

    Location: huddersfield

    Posts: 40
    I'm mark.

    Default cap replacement

    Hi. Thanks for the replies.

    I do admit to having a fondness for the panasonic fm series. I placed a few in a power supply last year and they improved the sound no end, for the price the fm's cost it was brilliant. The only problem is that they only go up to 50v.

    Think i will use the polymers around the dac chip where low esr is an advantage and probably silmic 2's or nichicon kz everywhere else.

    Can anyone recomend a good desoldering iron for this job. I purchased this:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-In-1-Wel...item46019b4760

    Thing is it melts the solder but the suction is very weak and it does not pick up the solder at all, can anyone recommend a 2-in-1 tool like this but with better suction. I don't want to spend a lot of money on a desoldering station for a one off job.

    Many thanks. John.

  9. #9
    MartinT Guest

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    Andr'e is right, Sanyo Os-Cons are superb sounding electrolytics - but watch the voltage rating as they have very little tolerance for over-volts.

  10. #10
    Join Date: Jan 2010

    Location: Oxford

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    Quote Originally Posted by goodsguys View Post
    Hi. Thanks for the replies.

    I do admit to having a fondness for the panasonic fm series. I placed a few in a power supply last year and they improved the sound no end, for the price the fm's cost it was brilliant. The only problem is that they only go up to 50v.

    Think i will use the polymers around the dac chip where low esr is an advantage and probably silmic 2's or nichicon kz everywhere else.

    Can anyone recomend a good desoldering iron for this job. I purchased this:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-In-1-Wel...item46019b4760

    Thing is it melts the solder but the suction is very weak and it does not pick up the solder at all, can anyone recommend a 2-in-1 tool like this but with better suction. I don't want to spend a lot of money on a desoldering station for a one off job.

    Many thanks. John.
    Try to heat both legs of the cap at the same time. Add more solder to too while you are removing. I only ever use the solder sucker to remove the solder once the component is out. If you cant get both legs hot enough at the same time, just do one and rock the cap to one side then switch to the other. After a couple switches it will come out.

    If you can source oscon sepc (solid polymer) for the digital rails they are worth the extra. I can probably sell you a few if you want, I think they cost me about £1.50 each. Definatley dont use any oscons on analogue rails. Panasonic FM are great in amps where you not running over 50v. I've got them in my restek (borderline on the voltage rails!) and they are good here. If you are going to pay for audio focussed caps for the analogue rails, cerefine are about a close to black gate as you'll get. I'm just waiting for some to arrive from the states
    Ian
    http://www.hifisounds.co.uk

    Photo bucket - loads of mods!

    SL1200- DIY PSU- DIY FET int regs-Denon DL103 by Expert Stylus Company on Isokenetic stabiliser & Sumiko HS-12 shell- Achromat - Isonoe feet, Meridian 200 Phono satge, Junson JA-88D, Audio Aero Capitole CD/ DAC, extreme modified Marantz SA7001, Squeezebox Touch modded to death!, Focal 826WSE- Kimber 8TC, Kimber and CAT5 attenuated DIY Interconnects, Kimber mains

    "Leave Nothing as Standard"

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