Location: Luton, UK
Posts: 425
I'm Dave.
I can relate to what you say, Robin, as in the past I've had a lot of experience with using Audioworks mains cables and their various equipment support systems.
In all instances, I've found the sonic presentation of their mains cables to be overblown in the bass, whilst at the same time, sounding a little hard and brittle in the treble, although 'tuneful'. That type of tonal presentation most definitely represents the 'house sound' of those cables - in an 'alien' system.
However, the effect is usually rather different when you adopt using their complete support/cable loom solution, as in their acrylic racks, mains cables and MIT interconnects, together with their favourite brands of equipment and speakers. The reason why ordinary 'kettle leads' improve on some aspects of the MW cables you're using, is likely because of the above and also because they're highlighting the 'house sound' of the latter.
Larry has a very definite idea on how he thinks music should be reproduced, and you either like it, and buy into the approach, or you don't. Although I like Larry as a person, I'm in the latter camp, as far as the most of the systems he puts together are concerned.
In that respect, it's rather like Linn and Naim equipment: you'll only hear from the equipment what's intended by the manufacturer, by following a certain approach or system-building methodology.
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!
Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!
Good advice Martin, I tried that yesterday. With Nordost plugged into the wall outlet and driving the Belkin power conditioner, and 3 Shunyata cables feeding components off the power conditioner, the overall sonic character indeed changes. The bass became a bit more articulate, tighter, easier to follow, and more melodic, while still retaining the kick and the punch. But the overall sound appears to have hardened a bit (sounds a bit colder). Not necessarily in a bad way, because I'm enjoying a lot of 'air' and previously undetected longer decays, but it's not as lush as when I'm feeding my power amp with Shunyata plugged directly into the wall.
What amazes me is the sheer complexity of various permutations and recombinations and how many of those alter the sonic character. What amazes me even more is to learn that there are people who seem impervious to these changes, and who insist that all power cables sound absolutely the same.
Don't you just hate it when you cannot detect where the post ends and a signature line begins?
Alex.
Shocking, isn't it?
Not that it makes it easy to devise rules about power cable choice and setup, as you have discovered. It's a minefield and when you find a formula that works for you (my system uses Russ Andrews/Kimber Powerkords), stick with it and change things only carefully, ensuring that you can go back if necessary. I have learned this the hard way - for instance, the one time I bought a Nordost power cable (a silver El Dorado) I didn't like it at all.