I've ordered a new set of Linn springs for my Thorens TD125,(following dsjr's advice)now are there any useful tips for setting up the suspension or is it going to be a suck it and see excersise.
I've ordered a new set of Linn springs for my Thorens TD125,(following dsjr's advice)now are there any useful tips for setting up the suspension or is it going to be a suck it and see excersise.
Bass Plonker
Yeah, I was going to suggest getting an experienced dealer to do it for you, but since Grahams-is-the-only-one-nearby, where there might be the necessary skill, I thought better of it...
Firstly, is there a problem with the supplied springs? One of mine was a bit "off" and needed loads of patience to get the thing to behave. The Linn springs are rather better made and finished off, so with any luck, you'll be able to fit and forget. PLEASE LEAVE the suspension cups in place, remove the locking nuts/washers preventing the top plate lifting out and work that way. The Linn springs "should" fit in the original grommets properly and I doubt it will be necessary to replace these as well, although that's up to you (the sprung top plate is rather more inert than a typical Linn sub-chassis of old)
The other thing is careful dressing of the arm exit cables and adding a separate earth to the amp is essential in my view :-
European decks, plus BSR and Garrards too, used one of the signal screens to "earth" the turntable. B&O had a separate outer screen on their lead, avoiding hum problems but Thorens and Dual did this to their detriment. My advice is to see where the chassis is connected to the signal screen, cut the link and run some fine stranded wire out to the amp. My 125 had an R200 with Audio Origami exit cable on and since the earthing "tail" was long, I was able to adapt it a la Linn
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Thanks for that Dave,the locking nut washer bit by the arm mounting doesnt come out of contact with the chassis when the arm is plonked in its mounting hole(sme 3009)it seems as though it needs a bit more weight there.
I'm going to send the arm to Dom for service and rewire so it'll be away for a while and I'll probably use that time to think about the other things I'll be wanting to do to the deck.
Bass Plonker
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Very useful,thankyou
Bass Plonker
The top plate should bounce freely in as piston-like a motion as possible. As supplied, there are the dreaded sponge inserts in the springs, which are routinely removed these days (to be honest, the sponge is so fine, I wonder if removal really makes a sonic difference?). The nylon? cups are adjusted to level the suspension and the correct setting for mine was with the top plate roughly level, or a fraction below, the edge of the plinth, which wasn't quite square on my sample and a mm or two makes all the difference to the eye of a spirit level isn't available
P.S. The platter "damping strap" makes absolutely no difference to the sound, since the two platters effectively cancel out any major parasitic resonances, the remaining dealt with by the mat, but it didn't half make the thing look better, especially as once you've made a mirror finish on the outer edge, you have to keep polishing it for ever. I also found it helpful to give the platter a gentle push to help the belt haul it up to speed. the mk2 obviously has the clutch assembly which does the same thing, but the mk1 has a "grippy" motor pulley instead..... At least a tight record centre hole can be dealt with without the platter grinding on the top plate etc as in other suspended decks - and Thorens spindles are on the large side of tolerance generally.
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On my TD 125 Mk I the spindle tap just barely protrudes up through the center hole of records. It seems like yours are simular? Is this defacto standard on the TD 125?
Br Micke
Last edited by AlfaGTV; 02-03-2012 at 11:05. Reason: Please excuse my english, its not my native tongue
Just a thought.
How about replacing those pesky springs with sorbathane buffers and then it would be just a case of levelling the plinth,possibly replacing the stupido little rubber feet on the corners with three proper adjustable feet of the pointy variety.
I'd be interested to hear some thoughts on this.
I was going to replace my plinth eventually as I'm not over enamoured with the teak veneered excuse it comes with.
Bass Plonker
The short spindle is normal for all of these and since it's ever so slightly large, most records are automatically "stabilised" when playing. The main bearing is totally silent and this does give a lower noise floor at bass frequencies I found.
Thorens offered their "mushrooms" as an option to replace the springs. What you may gain in one area, you *may* lose in another. Perhaps if the plinth was replaced with something far more substantial, it might work.
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I know you have a supply of corks - perhaps those could be utilised? Alternatively, many running shoes have Sorbothane insoles (or inserts) - these could be cut out of an old pair and reused in the suspension (once suitably deodorised of course).
Altering the compliance of the suspension from sprung to Sorbothane will have a significant impact on the efficacy of said suspension - but don't let that stop you...
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