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Thread: Garrard 301 restoration project

  1. #21
    Join Date: Nov 2009

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    I'm Juha.

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    It is all coming nicely together and looking great.
    My Gear

    Source components:
    Garrard 401 in a solid birch plywood plinth / Trans-Fi Terminator T3Pro / ESCo modified Denon DL-103
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    Analysis Plus: Big Silver Oval speaker cables and Silver Oval-in interconnects, Mark Grant DSP 2.5 Dual Screened power cables
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    Nitty Gritty 1.5Fi MK II

  2. #22
    Alex_UK's Avatar
    Alex_UK is offline Spotify + Facebook Moderator / Chilled-Out Wino and only here for the shilling
    Join Date: Aug 2009

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    I'm WrappingALilacCurtainAroundMyBobby.

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    Top work! Was everything ok with the spindle & thrust pad when you dismantled the bearing Andrew?
    Alex

    Main System: Digital: HP Laptop/M2Tech Hiface/Logitech Media Server/FLAC; Marantz SA7001 KI Signature SACD Player and other digital stuff into Gatorised Beresford Caiman DAC Vinyl: Garrard 401/SME 3009 SII Improved/Sumiko HS/Nagaoka MP-30
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  3. #23
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,302
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSJR View Post
    Lovely
    Quote Originally Posted by selfaddict View Post
    It is all coming nicely together and looking great.
    Thanks guys the nice comments keep me plugging away!

    Quote Originally Posted by Alex_UK View Post
    Top work! Was everything ok with the spindle & thrust pad when you dismantled the bearing Andrew?
    They appear to be ok, I spun the platter briefly after rebuilding and it kept rotating for 45 seconds. Altough this does worry me a little as I have read reports of the kokomo upgrades being able to keep the platter spinning for upto 2 minutes In my defence I didn't reoil the thust pad or the spindle so it's probably using the last remaining oil on the spindle shaft and thrust pad surface. I'll be getting some photo's organised and posted so other members can assess if the thrust pad looks like it needs replacing.

    Today has been about getting some of the motor housing cleaned. Today saw the motor clips getting cleaned and then snapping most of the clips holding them in place, these were quite rusty some even snapping with the slighest of prods. The motor pulley got cleaned and also the speed disc, both cleaning up like new pennies. I decided to leave the small screws alone as I did not want to loose any of these, they are absolutely tiny! I'll be turning my attention to the top and bottom motor cover this week when I'll be giving them a respray later in the week. I have a small problem in that I still have a motor clip stuck in place so it looks like good old WD40 might have to come out. The next big thing to clean is the motor yoke, today it got 45 minutes cleaing and it still didn't look much better even after getting through several rags. It sure looks like this will need several days of intensive cleaing to get it upto scratch. Photo's will follow in next few days. I'm at work tomorrow which is going to slow things down.

    The stripping and cleaning of the 301 is the easy bit. Researching is quite hard as there are many conflicting pieces of advice However I'll be shitting myself when I have to put the bloody thing back together again
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE
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    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  4. #24
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,302
    I'm Andrew.

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    More cleaning today with the 301. Today the motor casing got resprayed and the bearing got cleaned out, I have not examined it yet, I dont intend stripping it out so its just going to get a fresh oil change and hopefully that should be it for another 45 years! The magnet assembly on the motor housing case needs cleaning but thats another job for another day. I finally managed to get the last spring pin removed with a little gentle tap from a panel pin hammer The motor yoke has had three days of polishing so I think its as good as it gets I could do more but I need to spend some time on the other bits of the 301. I'm hoping that the spare parts that I ordered arrive soon as I want to get the motor unit assembled before the new year.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  5. #25
    Join Date: Mar 2010

    Location: Sheffield

    Posts: 2,898
    I'm Simon.

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    Andrew, just because a bearing spins for a long time doesn't mean it's better than a bearing which comes to a stop sooner. You could fill two bearings with different viscosities of oil and one will stop before the other, they will both be just as quiet. Some brands favour bearings that aren't particularly free running, as long as they remain smooth across a full rotation that's what counts.

    I don't know the Kokomo spindle pad, but if you took two spindle pads that both had exactly the same contact point with the bearing spindle, but one of them was essentially flat and the other had a pronounced dome, the one with the dome would spin for longer due to lower viscous coupling. Some people may mistakenly assume this = reduced drag, and conclude that = reduced noise, this isn't the case, viscous drag is essentially silent.

    So don't stress a bearing that stops quickly, it can be beneficial to speed stability.

  6. #26
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Preston, UK

    Posts: 851
    I'm Dominic.

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    Andrew, if at all posible please get rid of the Kokomo bearing. It will, if it has not already, permanently damage the bearing spindle. The ball used is harder than the spindle. This will cause the spindle to wear and cause more friction against the ball. These have to be the worst of worst so called upgrades for Garrards!

    You mention the motor has had 3 days of polishing. What part have you been polishing. You may have done more harm than good.

    Please please ring me before you do any more work.
    Last edited by Dominic Harper; 29-12-2011 at 21:49.

  7. #27
    Join Date: Nov 2009

    Location: Devon

    Posts: 1,903
    I'm stu.

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    Have been lucky to hear a restored audio grail 301 recently and have to say these decks are well worth looking after.
    301/Puresound 2A3/quite large Grf cab horny ones.Eminence/Coral/Le cleach

  8. #28
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,302
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sq225917 View Post
    Andrew, just because a bearing spins for a long time doesn't mean it's better than a bearing which comes to a stop sooner. You could fill two bearings with different viscosities of oil and one will stop before the other, they will both be just as quiet. Some brands favour bearings that aren't particularly free running, as long as they remain smooth across a full rotation that's what counts.

    I don't know the Kokomo spindle pad, but if you took two spindle pads that both had exactly the same contact point with the bearing spindle, but one of them was essentially flat and the other had a pronounced dome, the one with the dome would spin for longer due to lower viscous coupling. Some people may mistakenly assume this = reduced drag, and conclude that = reduced noise, this isn't the case, viscous drag is essentially silent.

    So don't stress a bearing that stops quickly, it can be beneficial to speed stability.
    No worries mate, I'm just commenting on some remarks made on another forum regards the spin time of the kokomo baring, I'm keeping mine stock altough it will need some oiling.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dominic Harper View Post
    Andrew, if at all posible please get rid of the Kokomo bearing. It will, if it has not already, permanently damage the bearing spindle. The ball used is harder than the spindle. This will cause the spindle to wear and cause more friction against the ball. These have to be the worst of worst so called upgrades for Garrards!

    You mention the motor has had 3 days of polishing. What part have you been polishing. You may have done more harm than good.

    Please please ring me before you do any more work.
    Dominic, I still have the stock baring and it's stopping for the time being. I'm a 1210 freak really but the 301 has been an interesting side project really whilst I wait for my next set of upgrades for the techie. I've polished the motor Yoke over the last 3 days, I havent spent the entire last three days polishing it, blimey i'd have a very shiney piece of metal indeed. All other parts of the motor have not been touched. As mentioned I resprayed the external motor casing and I removed some gunk from the top and bottom bearing covers, this has been external grease. I have also removed the cadmium from the various levers. I'm stuck at the moment anyway cos I need some more spare parts. Please PM me your number and we'll have a chat


    Quote Originally Posted by chelsea View Post
    Have been lucky to hear a restored audio grail 301 recently and have to say these decks are well worth looking after.
    Have you seen the prices that they sell for, try £3K for a 301?? Which I must say is probably worth the money when you consider how far they go when restoring. I've spent about 20 hours so far on the deck and another 10 studying the various forums and documents on the dam thing and I'm still nowhere near finishing it. Altough I will be hopefully re-assembling the motor unit over the next few days.
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  9. #29
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,302
    I'm Andrew.

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    Been a while but finally some spares arrived for the 301. So this evening installed a new on/off switch and speed range switches, I'll be using a "make-do" speed adjustment knob which should be ok until I source the real thing. I'm now waiting for faceplates which I'll rivet on at some stage. I'll be t-cutting and polishing the interior and exterior of the chasis whilst its in its stripped down state. I have installed a new felt oil pad. The engine yolk has been partially rebuilt with new suspension springs and spring rubbers, the "e" clips were recycled but some were replaced with Maplins equivalent. A new brake pad has been installed. I'm awaitin some oil from Dom at Northwest Audio, when this arrives the motor will be re-oiled and greased where appropiate, then installed in the motor yolk. The rest of this weekend will be spent cleaning and polishing the remaining levers and metalwork under the chasis
    Attached Images Attached Images
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  10. #30
    Join Date: Jan 2011

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    I'm afesteringvinylphile.

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    Lyrics are the ramblings of man, sometimes inspired by The Creator, most often, not.
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