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Thread: Putting Linn springs on my Thorens

  1. #1
    Join Date: Dec 2010

    Location: Northampton

    Posts: 1,373
    I'm Mark.

    Default Putting Linn springs on my Thorens

    I've noticed things have been sagging a bit recently. I'd give it a bit of a tweak only for it to go a bit saggy again a week or so later.

    New springs I thought. Googled Thorens springs and found some nice, triple chromed, ones from Phonosophie. Got in touch with the UK agent for a price. £170. I asked them if they had misplaced the decimal point. They didn't reply.

    Maybe Linn springs was my next thought. While at Whittlebury I found Russ wotshisname selling them for a tenner. That tenner was originally destined for some nice vinyl at Stamford Audio, but I thought this was a good investment.

    Once home I eventually set about replacing the springs and the new rubbers. I left the nuts right at the end of their travel as I'd read that the Linn springs are a bit stronger. I read somewhere that the Thorens ones need 4lbs for compression were the Linn ones need 7lbs.

    Did it bounce? Did it f**k!! Okay, time for a rethink.

    A bit of investigation revealed that the Linn rubbers are a fair bit thicker than the Thorens ones and compress the springs on the Thorens bolts too much.
    So I swapped the rubbers back after a cleaning. While doing this I noticed that the black plastic washers are actually wedge shaped. I think to compensate for the Thorens springs not being flat at the top. I left these out.

    Yeah!! Bouncy bouncy time.

    Getting the spring closest to the motor is always a bit of a bugger. I ended up replacing the smaller rubber with the Linn one to get it just right. The other springs I just used to level things up. I then went back and gave everything a slight tweak to get the fine balance of bounciness and being level.
    I put the mat, clamp and a record on for the last tweak.

    After a couple of days of running I gave it another tweak as it had settled slightly.
    The bounce with the Linn springs is not as soft as it was with the Thorens springs, but it has remained stable for a while and I'm very happy with that.

    There may be a bit of bracing epoxied on to the sub-platter in the not too distant future. So I'll be doing all over again. Yeah!!

    I've got some tonearm wire on order (vdh mss-7) so that can be done at the same time.
    Now back to experimenting with resistors for my diy supply. And listening to the odd bit of vinyl as well, as that's what it's all about isn't it?
    Mark

  2. #2
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...

    Posts: 14,535
    I'm David.

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    The LP12 springs work with the heavier TD125 I understand, although I gave mine to a mate before I'd used them on mine.. All you're doing is altering the frequency of bounce and nothing more, so don't waste your time here, as there's much more important issues, like the PLINTH for instance!!!

    The Thorens decks never suffered sagging springs as the LP12 did at one time and they also got their rubber grommets right too, so IMO no need to replace them unless the suspension just cannot be gt to bounce piston-like. There are holes in the platter-toplate and sub-chassis to enable you to adjust the cam-washers to centre everything up and this is easily done with practice. Only about one in twenty TD160's I set up were almost impossible due to a bad spring.. I wish Linn had such an arrangelemt on their early decks, as before they finally got the plinths better in the late 80's, no two Lp12's were ever the same.

    So you've removed the cam washers? Ah well, if it works for you... As I said above, with the deck mounted high so you can get underneath it with a small socket-spanner and with belt and outer platter on, these make it a doddle to adjust the suspension up - something that couldn't be done as easily on the Td150 and very early 160's and is a right PITA with the TD125 - and one of my 125 springs is iffy as well
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
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  3. #3
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: Yorks

    Posts: 16,643
    I'm Nobody.

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    I can't remember what i did to get those springs to work on the TD.. i think i fitted extra weight by bolting a custom made Brass weight to the sub around the bearing housing!

  4. #4
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...

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    I'm David.

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    A shame you can't remember how heavy it was, as re-inforcing the bearing housing to the sub-chassis was a recommended upgrade back then, especially with non Thorens and SME tonearms. Adding mass as well would better sort the Linn springs too, although I don't see what's wrong with the originals, as any "sagging" would have happened decades ago and not recently - these things are nearly 40 years old now you know...
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
    Crying out at the top of my voice; Tell me now if you can hear me

  5. #5
    Join Date: Apr 2009

    Location: Near Saffron Walden, Essex

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    I'm Dave.

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    Yeah, I've got a bit of sag too..

  6. #6
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: Yorks

    Posts: 16,643
    I'm Nobody.

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    I much prefered the cradle type suspension of the Logic '101'.. Nowadays if i were to go back to vinyl i wouldnt touch a springy deck with a barge pole nor would i entertain belts.

  7. #7
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...

    Posts: 14,535
    I'm David.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hifi_dave View Post
    Yeah, I've got a bit of sag too..
    A BIT????
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
    Crying out at the top of my voice; Tell me now if you can hear me

  8. #8
    Join Date: Dec 2010

    Location: Northampton

    Posts: 1,373
    I'm Mark.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andre View Post
    I can't remember what i did to get those springs to work on the TD.. i think i fitted extra weight by bolting a custom made Brass weight to the sub around the bearing housing!
    They work alright at the moment. I'm quite happy with the results of my fiddling about. Might add some sort of mini girders accross the sub platter. Bit of stiffening could hurt.
    Mark

  9. #9
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: Yorks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dingdong View Post
    They work alright at the moment. I'm quite happy with the results of my fiddling about. Might add some sort of mini girders accross the sub platter. Bit of stiffening could hurt.
    I had some brass turned which slipped over the bearing housing, i bolted that to the sub chassis adding more weight, i had a couple hole drilled throught each side of the piece tapped for grub screws, tigtening the grubs into the bearing housing as i wasnt happy the housing just being pressed into the sub..The idea was adding weight to the sub but also clamping the bearing housing at the same time..

  10. #10
    Join Date: Dec 2010

    Location: Northampton

    Posts: 1,373
    I'm Mark.

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    That's sounds like a reasonable idea. I've always thought it would be a good idea to make replacement Thorens sub-platters. I'm sure they would make a big improvement. Something a bit more substantial would be nice.

    I'm almost at the point were the next step would be to bin the tt and put the Hadcock and Shure onto something else. Not sure what yet. Maybe it's time to play with idler drives next year. I've always liked Gyro's as well. Then there is always that pig ugly monstrosity of a dd that everyone keeps banging on about. What's its name again?
    Mark

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