Hi everyone.
I thought I'd post a bit of DIY on the forum. The design pictured below is an open baffle speaker I have been developing over the past couple of months. One reason I have for posting this is the fact that, in this month's HFW, Noel keywood, in answer to a reader's letter, and with some justification, talks about the fact that OB speakers are not for those with small rooms. I won't go into why here because Noel explains it in his answer, in the letters page.
The design I have done is a bit of a cheat really as it is a hybrid design using active bass reinforcement, from a subwoofer bolted into the base. However what this means is that the delightful, fast open qualities of dipole midrange and treble can be enjoyed in a small room without the subsequent bass issues that a full dipole radiator would enforce. The laws of physics state that the speaker still needs to be relatively large to accommodate the big twelve inch lower midrange/upper bass driver, in this case a Goodmans Axiom 401, but not so large as to be overwhelming in a small space.
Why use such a big driver when there is a sub to handle the bass? The answer is that the sub needs to cross over at a relatively low frequency, certainly well below 200Hz, otherwise its monopole radiation pattern will interfere with the dipole baffle above and cause a discontinuity in the bass register, which will be audible at the listening seat. Plus the fact that a driver mounted on an open baffle needs to be at least 6dB more efficient than the upper mid/tweeter, otherwise searing treble and an overall tinny sound will result unless the tweeter is padded down. The large driver satisfies these requirements much easier than a small unit.
Personally I like to keep crossovers as simple as possible but this in turn means that you need very high quality drivers, matched for efficiency and radiation patterns otherwise you are wasting your time.
The monopole bass end also means that with a bit of tweaking for bass level, the speaker itself can be placed closer to the wall than would otherwise be the case for a full dipole radiator, again handy in a small space. My speakers are placed roughly half a metre from the rear wall and sound great in that position.
Here is a view of the rear of the baffle.
Looking carefully, one might see the slot at the base of the side wing through which the subwoofer vents to the sides.
There is one on the opposite wing too.
The towel is a temporary arrangement until I get some filling to put down the sides of the sub. This stops the sound, coming from the OB, above from resonating in the gap with the subwoofer output, until I eventually fit a board to isolate the sub chamber from the baffle.
The phase is set so that the sub radiates in-phase with the baffle's rear radiation. No direct front radiation of the out-of-phase bass from the sub is allowed. However, slots are cut into bases of the baffle wings to allow the bass to escape to the sides and of course the sub is free to radiate rearwards.
And here they are seen in-situ from, the wider angle, with my PX25 SE amp driving them. I like the look of them and so does the missus.
As to sound quality, they suit me down to the ground, with a beautiful, clear, open mid range that is fast and detailed without descending into shoutiness. the Fostex FE108EZ and the Goodmans Axiom 401 are a marriage made in heaven and together, produce a sound that is powerful and organic.
The presentation might be a little too "neutral" for rock music but given my diet of jazz, soul, blues, folk and classical, they suit me perfectly and are completely unfatiguing to listen to. The sub simply fills in the bottom octave from around 70Hz downwards and as a result, its radiation pattern causes no weird effects when combined with the dipole baffle.
I'm very pleased with them. If one is prepared to cast aside any prejudice one might have against subwoofers then they can be very successfully employed to give listeners the benefits of open baffle sound within a much smaller space than would be normal for such a speaker.
Steve