I would seriously doubt it would be a "major" improvement. It is more likely to be a "minor" improvement.
Kevin
Too busy enjoying the music....
European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..
Technics SL1210 MK2 fully rebuilt and repainted. Ortofon 2M Black Cart, Isonoe isolation feet , MN bearing and Funk Firm platter upgrade, Oyaide RCA Tone Arm and speaker cables, Jelco SA-750D Tonearm. Oyaide HS-TF Carbon headshell, MCRU Linear External PSU, High Fidelity Crystal glass turntable matt, Blue LED upgrade, Denon AVR-2808CI Amp, Bowers and Wilkins DM602S3 Speakers,
Black Rhodium Jazz power cables for amp and turntable, Firebottle mk2 Phono Stage.
It will be the final piece in the jigsaw for sure, but irreversible from a mod point of view, so unless you have two identical decks, back to back tests will be very difficult.
If it made that much difference, I would seriously question the design of the bearing in the first place. However, the bearing is seriously over engineered and would probably survive a direct hit from artillery.
Kevin
Too busy enjoying the music....
European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..
Being the author of this original post outlining the detail on how to mount the baseplate to the TT, the base plate brings improvement in ensuring additional rigidity between the turntable base and the MN Bearing. It ensures that there will be no mechanical minute vibrations between the MN Bearing and the turntable base. It will add additional weight to the turntable when adding the baseplate.
Does it bring an improvement where it translates into audible results? That was not my goal to ever state that or give an impression when I created this post. The goal was to give great pictorial detail on how to install MN Baseplate in an effort to show what is involved, the tools one would need, and to make it easier for others should they decide to go down this route, to add rigidity when coupling the MN Bearing to the TT base.
If you are looking to know if adding the base plate will give a day-and-night audible difference to your TT experience - it will not. Does it bring a bang-for-your-buck audible difference? No. It is not designed for that. It will bring that one last piece of the puzzle together for those of us who want to reach audio nirvana - the ultimate statement for the complete SL-1200 experience.
If you are looking for an audible improvement to your TT experience, you will better off starting here - in no particular order (others may have different precedence on reaching audio nirvana):
New Tonearm with armboard (Jelco, SME, Ortofon)
MN Bearing (or the Ian Bearing)
Phono Cartridge
MN CopperTop Platter
Funk Firm Mat (Is the name Achroplat?)
Isonoe Feet
DEDICATED PHONO PREAMP !!! I cant stress this enough people !!!
And for some - replacing the caps.
Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
I forgot to add -
For those who don't wish to replace their tonearm - there is a more economical solution to elevating the sound of your turntable:
Replacing the stock cable with a KAB solution and really good RCA jacks - which will allow you to use any cable you wish. It really works !!!!
And for MK2 owners who are willing to put in the work - replacing the tonearm wire with a pure copper tonearm wire. These wires that are in those tonearms are tinned wires.
I believe the MK5 uses copper tonearm wire.
Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Sorry Mick just seen this.
The truth is that where and how the MN bearing sits without the base plate really is not ideal for the solid, well engineered precision thing it is.
Have a look at posts 3 and 4 here and you'll see that three screws basically screw to the aluminum floor body http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...ing-Base-Plate
If you look closely at posts 7 and 8 you'll see that the applied 6mm base plate provides a far better, firmer more solid foundation for something like the substantial MN bearing, which can only allow it to function, optimally I'd say.
Sound wise it would be hard for me to say as I'm known to often change more than one thing at a time which was the case here.
I wanted all the right upgrades and this was part of that for me.
As well as the sense of knowing that the bearing is secured, solidly, firmly, towards optimum from that great bearing, I'm in no doubt that it is of further benefit and improvement where it matters which is the music, no matter how small an equation it adds to the whole picture so to speak
I'd advise anyone doing the bearing to also do the bearing base plate, cause it makes sense and not every upgrade provides big improvement to the ears like cable a cart or speakers as not all upgrades work that way