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Thread: Power supply for my Thorens

  1. #11
    Join Date: Dec 2010

    Location: Northampton

    Posts: 1,373
    I'm Mark.

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    Your comments are always welcome. I agree that the plinth is not the best in the world.
    So far I've slapped a load of dynamat type stuff on the inside, changed the belt and oil and put a new base on it. Oh, and a Blue Horizon mat and Michell record clamp. The power supply was just an idea I had to see if I could make a really cheap upgrade. I reckon, going by comments I've read on Armegeddon clones, it should work.

  2. #12
    Join Date: Aug 2011

    Location: Bacau, Romania

    Posts: 1,215
    I'm Bob.

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    I would be quite interested in your experiment also Mark, as my old Thorens is due a makeover having been mothballed and travelling in storage for too long.
    This poor old thing has been variously modified over the years ranging from platter chassis rubberised bitumen coating and bracing, frame glued to alloy plate, and once having the indignity of being embedded in concrete.
    The casing is now shot so a hardwood DIY job is on the cards while a new belt gets delivered (pony express job here).
    As you mentioned, the transformation/rectification/regeneration a la Lenco idea is theoretically a perfect solution, but in terms of practicality a bit of a sledgehammer/nut approach.
    If the motor is 110v ac, it should be fairly simple to bypass the dropper resistor etc. and feed a more even voltage. I would need to source a new tranny here, so a toroidal looks likely in my own case, and possibly DC control/indication over power from the deck itself. Hmm, time to fire up Autocad 0.5 (pencil/paper)
    Look forward to your update on this....

  3. #13
    Join Date: Dec 2010

    Location: Northampton

    Posts: 1,373
    I'm Mark.

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    I've ordered the caps and a few resistors. I'll let you know how it goes.
    If you fancy doing a bit of upgrading I'd recommend a decent mat (Blue Horizon) and a clamp. And maybe a decent arm or a rewire.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Aug 2011

    Location: Bacau, Romania

    Posts: 1,215
    I'm Bob.

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    Already been there Mark, having tried cutting and bevelling a 6mm annular glass ring and bedding it on Blutac to a very expensive canadian rubber mat all with some stunning and different effects. I still have the latter mat but it looks pretty shabby now, so I may revisit the situation.
    The Decca/Hadock combo I used made the audible changes all the more peculiar I might add, particularly off the glass ring with all but the infamous sibilance improved dramatically.

    The deck's bearing still feels remarkably smooth and free, but it had always been stored right way up, so I guess the lube is still intact.
    Holding the deck upside down for a minute, the spindle stayed in place under suction even when pulling it away gently - I've a vague recollection of the mix containing Wynns or some such Teflon gearbox additive from 20 odd years ago. Quite effective, although I never checked the drag effect as the pitch sounded fine and the belt showed no strain effects.

    I will be interested to see how accurately the LP speed turns out (my only need) at 110v then look at a a lesser running voltage, as motor vibration is reportedly reduced to good sonic effect elsewhere. I never noticed any vibes but worth a look during the refurb.
    If I can figure out the difference in start and running voltage and notice any sonic improvement, I would have the PSU switch from high torque 110v start to the reduced voltage on a delayed relay.
    The DC control switching can be done from the deck along with a natty blue LED run indicator to match the rest of the equipment indicators, but that is a cosmetic mod for the future.

    Having spent so many years on the 24 and 16 bit digital side of the hobby, revisiting the analogue side will be interesting.

  5. #15
    Join Date: Aug 2011

    Location: Bacau, Romania

    Posts: 1,215
    I'm Bob.

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    What progress Mark?

  6. #16
    Join Date: Dec 2010

    Location: Northampton

    Posts: 1,373
    I'm Mark.

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    Sorry, missed this. I'm still experimenting with resistors for each motor connection. Just replacing the cap has improved things a bit. Getting a cheap stethoscope from ebay to check on the motor noise.
    Will report back soon with what I finally end up with. Or I could just bin the idea and get a TD125.

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