Where to buy resistors for cartridge loading

[shane]

Headache? Take Phensic...

[Cotlake]

I crease up with laughter every time I read about suggestions that recommend components that are outside the official EC/EMC/VDU specifications. I also do the same when the components are within the EC/EMC/VDU specs, but are embossed with one or other expensive name. The public ( & DIYer) needs to know that they are being fleeced. Maybe a visit to a couple of Chinese production lines watching the girls loading up different packaging from different companies in the packaging machines whilst the production line rolls on might, just might, wake a few people up.

Resistance is resistance. There is no such thing as a 'better' resistance value through gold, silver, or lead. 1 ohms is 1 ohms, and so is 100K. What is important is the tolerance, wattage, and noise level of the resistance material. Anyone blew their Fututech fuse yet?

I myself had to laugh when I saw this happening with the printing machine that prints the name tag on the electrolytic caps that I use. The cost between the imprinted brand names varied, so I went for the cheapest use of ink.

STan

Hi Stan,

Thank you for your condesending response. Sorry mate, regardless of your professional knowledge, without doubt, different resistors cause a piece of kit to sound different accordingly (you could work this out for yourself in your own kit if you wanted to). This is well known by DIYers and that is why people question on choice. Certainly those of us who choose to experiment on this are not being fleeced as you suggest. Actually we end up much better educated. In contrast, you most certainly are fleeced owing to your closed mind approach.

Resistor choice in certain applications is critical. What works well for shall we say valve cathode bias does not necessarily work in the signal path. My previous post relates to my experience of experimenting on this and what I personally find best. Please do not rubbish what I have said. Maybe you've never tried it for yourself? There is good foundation experience for my recommendation and there are plenty of other anoraks out there who have also discovered what I have suggested. I would not make a recommendation lightly. I've done this and know the truth of my claim, as ever IMHO. Let the ears test it.

I am not talking about the resistance properties as you say....resistance is resistance is resistance per se. However, without doubt different resistor construction results in different sounds. What I have advocated is, IME the best option for resistors directly in the signal path which will provide the best sound per pound and answers the original question.

Best wishes,

Greg

[NRG]

It's the same old argument Greg, we've heard it before, resistors are resistors and caps are caps as long as the value and part is within spec then it will do and anything else won't affect performance 'cause my measurements tell me so. Same tired argument as the one 'if it's not in the design guide then your'e doing it wrong and it cannot possibly be right'

[Marco]

Welcome back, Neil! Where have you been?

I don't think Stan is quite like you're making out. From my experience of knowing him he's certainly not a belligerent 'measurements type'. However I realise his comments above could be construed as such. Personally, I think it was just a failed attempt at being 'tongue-in-cheek' (hence the smiley used).

Let's wait and see what Stan comes back with.

Marco.

[StanleyB]

Is it an old argument though? Resistors and fuses are considered safety devices. Consequently there are a number of design and manufacturing rules that they have to conform to in both specification, material composition, and size. If they are not manufactured to those specs, they can be deemed illegal, and even a product warranty can be deemed void because of that.

If you say use a metal film instead of a carbon in a circuit, that is a different matter compared to recommending the use of metal film from brand x over brand Y. Then you are implying some deviation exists between the two. That would straight away imply that either brand Y or brand X is breaking the product approval rules, and with that the safety standard.

[Hozepipe]

I just ignore pontification on subjects as subjective as this. I bought some expensive ones, and some cheap ones, so I can find out myself (I know I'm not being scientific because they're also different construction types...)

Anyway, they haven't only just gone and plopped onto my door mat! I only ordered them yesterday. Well done Hifi Collective.

Thing is I may have bought the wrong values. Can someone help me?

Shinkoh 1k1 colours are (Thick stripe >) Brown Black Brown Brown

My ARC ones are 1k and Brown Black Black Black so that looks right, I think.

However, the cheaper ones which are supposed to be 1K have the colours (thick stripe >) *gap* Red Black Brown ???

I'm confused!

[leo]

The thicker space goes to the right when reading the values

so the carbon ones would be Brown Black Red which is 1k for a 3 bander, I presume theres also Gold after the thicker space which is tol

Sounds like the Shinkoh is a 4 bander again any thick spacer goes to right Brown Brown Black Brown is 1k1

The tol can also be brown or red so it can cause confusion

Do you have a pic to confirm? its easier going from a piccy

[Hozepipe]

Thanks Leo, no pic but that makes sense. I just bunged on the 1k1 resistors and it sounds about the right balance (my system has other problems, but that's another story!)

s

[Mike]

Another little tip is to give them a quick measure with a meter, it's not unknown for some to have the wrong banding on them. I've never found one like that but I hear others have.

[Hozepipe]

Good tip. If anyone's interested, the carbon film cheapo resisters sound pretty good to me, haven't wanted to desolder them yet for the Shinkohs...

s