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Thread: Justin & Jerry's Hifi Blog

  1. #41
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    Thanks Paul - most interesting. Really neat looking. What would you say it does to the sound?

    Sadly, my CLS panels are 20 inches wide, so I won't be able to do anything quite like that. I'm thinking of getting a couple of strips of wood, painting them black, and using those as a 'frame' to attach a vertical line of 3 15 inch tiles to. Should then be able to stick this to the rear of the CLS frame with black electrical insulation tape. Anyone got any better ideas?
    .

  2. #42
    Join Date: Aug 2008

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    Jerry,

    I found that it tidied up the sound, as I mentioned before it seemed that the rear projected sound was hitting the walls and coming back slightly out compared to the forward projected sound. The foam seens to absorb a lot of this. I also found it made the treble not so loud but now I'v gotten used to it I think its more balanced.

    RE the tiles you could try glueing 2 together with contact adhesive or double sided tape. That was you will have a 30 wide tile that you might be able to put in similar to mine. Mine just sit there of their own accord, I didn't have to stick them to the speaker in any way.

    Your CLS might be different but I found that covering the entire back with tiles easn't as good as just using 2 tiles and leaving some gaps. Also It seems better leaving a bit of room between the panel and the tiles.

    One of the other problems with these is that they really show up a poorly produced album. Coldplay Viva la Viva through these is crap.
    ~Paul~

  3. #43
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    Thanks Paul. Given your commenst I think I'll make up a lattice contraption that can just be leant up against the rear of the speaker, or even free standing .... or - a free standing room divider thingy to attach the tiles to. ... IKEA?

    Will def look into that idea!
    ___

    TBH though - the toe in takes me a LONG way toward nirvana with the CLS. Can adjust the tonailty to suit mood or music by an easy small twirl of the panels too!
    Last edited by jandl100; 12-01-2009 at 10:34.
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  4. #44
    Join Date: Jan 2008

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    Your smiley as requested:


    Ben Duncan mains conditioner
    2022 MacBook Pro 14" M1 Pro 10/16/16/16
    Samsung QE75Q90T 75" QLED TV
    XMOS DSD Async USB to Coax converter
    RME Audio ADI-2 FS (AK4493) DAC
    Chord Clearway XLR interconnects
    Audioquest Crimson USB interconnect
    QED Quartz Reference optical interconnect
    Edifier S3000 Pro active speakers
    Atacama SE24 stands

  5. #45
    Join Date: Aug 2008

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    Motorised, remote control lazy susans with pan and tilt. Now thats something to think about
    ~Paul~

  6. #46
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    Well, I've now rotated things so that the CLSs are firing down the length of the room rather than across the width.
    About 5 feet clear behind them now.



    They are clearly much happier in this configuration. Soundstage is more natural and relaxed, music has more room to breathe. Climaxes less shouty - but still a bit forward. Much much better - and it was darn good to begin with!

    I've also now received the 6 15x15 inch egg carton absorbent tiles. Hmmm. They seem to flatten the soundstage - it's all a bit 2D when these are placed (quite closely) in a vertical array leaning up against the rear of the speaker.
    I've also figured out a way to mount the tiles more flexibly - IKEA do a 45 inch high or so 14x14 inch footprint stand which would hold 3 tiles quite nicely and would allow flexibility in placement pretty much anywhere in the room in a vertical array with some spacing between the tiles. Next time I'm near an IKEA I'll probably invest the required £17 or so for the two.

    Alternatively, I might try placing these forming a corner trap in the top rear corners of the room ....
    .

  7. #47
    Join Date: Aug 2008

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    Hi Jerry,

    I found that things didnt really work if I covered the whole of the back panel with the foam. I played around for a while with different numbers of tiles and in the end settles for 2 per speaker. This equates to 2/3's of the panel having the foam behind it. I don't think its a bad thing to let some of the rear projected high frequencies to get to the back wall.

    Of course your setup is completely different to mine so I would imagine that different things would work, you just have to fart arse around trying all of the possaibilities but thats half the fun!!
    ~Paul~

  8. #48
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    Box Swapper that I am I'm kinda hankering to change my amp.

    So are there any suggestions of a better way to power my Martin Logan CLSiiZ fullrange stats than my beast of a MF A370/2? Budget is £2k max, preferably rather less.
    .

  9. #49
    Join Date: Aug 2008

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    Hi Jerry,

    Update on the foam pads, I'm not using them now! I moved my speakers too so that they fire down the length of the room. This means that the speakers are in front of my curtains. The curtains alone seem to be enough which is suprising. I would have though more absorption than the curtains can give would have been needed. It seems that the foam/curtains/whatever need to be used sparingly.

    As for an amp you could have a look on the Martin Logan Owner's Club forum. Being a USA based group the taste in amps tend to differ to ours. However they are american speakers.....
    ~Paul~

  10. #50
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Norfolk, UK

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    I must admit that I found my Aeons to be very easy to drive and they were more than happy enough with my Audiolabs (a pair of 8000Ps), they were even happier oddly and worked better being single wired and driven by one 8000P rather than bi-amped. More a case of current than power it would seem.

    Ben Duncan mains conditioner
    2022 MacBook Pro 14" M1 Pro 10/16/16/16
    Samsung QE75Q90T 75" QLED TV
    XMOS DSD Async USB to Coax converter
    RME Audio ADI-2 FS (AK4493) DAC
    Chord Clearway XLR interconnects
    Audioquest Crimson USB interconnect
    QED Quartz Reference optical interconnect
    Edifier S3000 Pro active speakers
    Atacama SE24 stands

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