My Transporter's draws 0.3Ma...so not sure.
the American chaps seem to favour amplifiers for fancy fuses. (Apart from those that kitted out their digital gear!)
Had a reread over the AudioGon thread, like a lot of hifi stuff not a general consensus of "best practice" unfortunately.
As always suck it n see!
AC POWER
Hardwired 10kVA balanced mains powering entire system
AMPS
Meridian 557 power Amp (Modded) / PS Audio BHK Preamp (Modded)
SPEAKERS
Wharfedale Evo 4.4
DAC
PS Audio Directstream (Modded)
TURNTABLE
Pro-Ject X8 balanced output via XLR / Ortofon Quintet Blue cartridge
PHONOSTAGE
Pro-Ject DS3 B balanced Input (TT and Phonostage powered by Pro-Ject Power box RS2 linear psu)
DIGITAL
OPPO 203 (Modded: Linear PSU, i2s output to Dac) - Roon Endpoint, HDMI input used for all things Streaming/ PS5 /AppleTV ... also good for movies apparently?
MUSIC PLAYBACK
Tweaked AP-Linux based Roon Server into Oppo 203 as Roon endpoint
Ipad Roon Remote.
Apple Music/ YouTube via AppleTV, fed to Dac via Oppo HDMI input/i2s output to Dac.
SPEAKER CABLES
Biwired: Duelund DCA10GA (Bass) Duelund DCA16GA (mid & treble) Duelund 12DCA used as jumpers (On "Blackcat Cable" Chris Sommivigo's advice - yup, even with biwire it sounds better - and it does)
INTERCONNECTS
All Balanced: Ghost+ recording studio XLR cables
Location: gone
Posts: 11,519
I'm gone.
Here's my B&O tuner:
It this your "friend"?
Barry
When I took the lid of my 1975 Accuphase M-60 amps about a year ago, there was another layer of "lid". Removing that revealed something that looked very untouched/seen and very pristine indeed.
Honestly, some of these high end 70s amps are as good or better than anything produced today sonically. People think the caps must be "gone" etc etc, and I am sure in some cases they have but not it would appear in this case. Touchwood.
All the ground rules for building fabulous amps were around a long time ago. And the components to build them with were good enough too.
Very nice. When I was at school I always hated B&O of that era even then regarding them as more arty farty design than real hi-fi. Yet in the B&O shop after school in Watford I'd always drool. My father bought a B&O turntable with a platter that used to ring terribly. I bought a £60 (at the time quite expensive) solid diamond cantilever B&Q cart for it and it really wasn't too bad in practise.
Too many people dismiss B&O gear as "Habitat Hi-Fi" IMO, yet the 3000 series electronics are/were very good, and I've long been a fan of their fixed-coil cartridges (of which I have about half a dozen in my collection).
Barry
Location: gone
Posts: 11,519
I'm gone.
If we're talking 'slide rule' B&O, then it has to be the Beomaster 5000 and Beolab 5000. The 1700 items are nice but B&O did so much better than 'nice' when they put their minds to it.
Engineers: fixing problems you didn't know you had in ways you don't understand.
I've got a Beomaster 1001 which is rather cute... very slimline and has a huge slide rule tuning scale on the top.
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco