Advice needed for a DIY class A (solid state) headphone amp

[24bit]

Hello,
Firstly I'll try to describe the situation
I am not diy'er and my soldering skills aren't great (shame),
I actually asked a fellow audiophile (actually thanks to Ali - thank you sir) I've found someone who can solder for me.
I am sound engineer and since I've found info about LDR att. I decided I would like to try it,
Long story short - a friend is building for me LDR, but with few extra addons which will be perfect solution for my studio
Those addons are extra 2 selectable inputs and 1 extra out (default for subwoofer).
I thought that it would be great idea to fit into this set up a diy class A HP amp.
The gentleman who's building this (possibly a member of this forum) has knowledge about super hifi tube HP amps, but I need sth. not so expensive (up to 100,- pounds), little (so I can fit it inside LDR box) and solid state,
now getting to the point
I did some research in area of diy HP class A (solid state), but becasue I am not electronic, neither I know diy 'jargon', it just made my head to throbble
After some analysis (time and money are important too) I got to the conclusion that this :
http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/inde...ay&thread=5958
could be great option
You could purchase all elements and PCB from ebay seller, it's relatively very cheap, and apparently produces great sound ( this is very important to me)
Anyway thos diy'ers mention that this construction has some issues, and needs to be improved... - and explanation in in ancient egyptian language for me

I am asking here all diy'ers who has experience with building headphone amp,
class A (solid state) to advice /support me

I am after as much transparent sound as it possible - the unit will be for critical listening, that's the reason I am not after tubes (besides the costs and size of tube pcb) but solid state

PS . sorry for my 'englishhzz' - it's not my first language

thank you in advance and wish everyone great weekend!

[24bit]

the smaller unit it will be - the better, it could be max 135mm x 108mm
high max up to 30 mm

thanks

[A9X]

the smaller unit it will be - the better, it could be max 135mm x 108mm
high max up to 30 mm

thanks

What are you planning on using to power it? Those size constraints don't leave much scope once a PSU is factored in.

If it can fit into a larger case, there are some excellent options such as the Gilmore Dynalo with boards and parts from AMB or the M3 from AMB.

I'll be building another Dyna myself soon, but on one of the AMB PCBs this time rather than stripboard.

[Marco]

Hi Brett,

Welcome to AoS

Could you please pop into the Welcome area and say hello? Just tell us what system you use and what music you like, as this is required of all new members joining our community.

Cheers!

Marco.

[24bit]

What are you planning on using to power it? Those size constraints don't leave much scope once a PSU is factored in.

If it can fit into a larger case, there are some excellent options such as the Gilmore Dynalo with boards and parts from AMB or the M3 from AMB.

I'll be building another Dyna myself soon, but on one of the AMB PCBs this time rather than stripboard.

I was thinking about wall mart separate power supply,
thanks I look into it

[zanash]

an amp is only as good as its psu ...so build the best you can afford and the rest will follow

[24bit]

an amp is only as good as its psu ...so build the best you can afford and the rest will follow

ok, worst case scenario, I could fit psu into separate box
or it's a bad idea ?

[Epiphany Acoustics]

PSU in a separate enclosure is ideal! Keeps all the nasties away from the audio circuitry. Another vote for an AMB job.

I have built the M3 and the B22. They have an o11 and o22 respectively powering them. Both projects are two box jobs (separate enclosures for amp and power supply).

Great fun projects, gsuperb results and bucketloads of online support for them.