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Thread: WTD: Upgrade Tonearm Cable for SME, used.

  1. #1
    Join Date: Dec 2009

    Location: Swaledale, North Yorkshire + The Valley of Longevity

    Posts: 303
    I'm Toooldnowtogrowup.

    Default WTD: Upgrade Tonearm Cable for SME, used.

    I'm looking to upgrade the standard tonearm cable coming from my SME20 + MkV to phono stage .. Does anyone have anything interesting that is known not to introduce more sharpness to the sound .. I'm looking for a little more sweetness without losing detail.

    Thanks ...
    Brian
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Smile, breathe and go slowly ..........................




  2. #2
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...

    Posts: 14,535
    I'm David.

    Default

    How can a cable do this if it's properly designed in the first place - and VDH aren't called "bland-n-dull" for nothing you know

    The Audio Origami Van Damme cable is very good indeed, especially so when the cable itself is priced on its own. £99 or so may be regarded as an insult to the SME if you're rich enough to think that way, but my own AO cable came from an SME V user apparently.

    What are your speakers again? if you want more sweetness, that's where I'd possibly be looking - if they're Tannoys, then it's those (it's measurable, catalogued in countless reviews and audible too!) and turning the treble gain or possibly the rolloff down one notch may be enough to sort it. If I'm correct and you can still switch levels, then hard-wiring your favoured setting will improve things further, as the rotary level/rolloff controls are notoriously awful and best bypassed once set to the room and your taste.

    Hope this helps a tiny bit
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
    Crying out at the top of my voice; Tell me now if you can hear me

  3. #3
    Join Date: Dec 2009

    Location: Swaledale, North Yorkshire + The Valley of Longevity

    Posts: 303
    I'm Toooldnowtogrowup.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DSJR View Post
    How can a cable do this if it's properly designed in the first place - and VDH aren't called "bland-n-dull" for nothing you know

    The Audio Origami Van Damme cable is very good indeed, especially so when the cable itself is priced on its own. £99 or so may be regarded as an insult to the SME if you're rich enough to think that way, but my own AO cable came from an SME V user apparently.

    What are your speakers again? if you want more sweetness, that's where I'd possibly be looking - if they're Tannoys, then it's those (it's measurable, catalogued in countless reviews and audible too!) and turning the treble gain or possibly the rolloff down one notch may be enough to sort it. If I'm correct and you can still switch levels, then hard-wiring your favoured setting will improve things further, as the rotary level/rolloff controls are notoriously awful and best bypassed once set to the room and your taste.

    Hope this helps a tiny bit
    Hi Greg .... My SME is over 20 years old .. and was bought 2nd hand then ... so the "richness" factor does not exist unfortunately ... .. the system was hard before the Tannoys came along ... so before I start messing with the x/overs and things on the Ardens ( I've played with the settings and it did help) .. I am going to try a few easier to implement things. I am sure the system will benefit from a tone arm cable upgrade anyway so that will not be money wasted ,, thanks for suggesting the AO's .. I will look them up.

    I am though looking for advice on what I can do with the Tannoy x/overs .. people have told me they are hopeless ... but they sound so good ( even with that touch of glare) that I am slightly nervous that I'll lose more than I gain with any changes ...

    Cheers
    Brian
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Smile, breathe and go slowly ..........................




  4. #4
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...

    Posts: 14,535
    I'm David.

    Default

    Marco can probably put you in touch with a Tannoy crossover expert

    I think there's loads on the net if you don't mind doing some Googling. Tannoy apparently did loads of research into crossovers in the early eighties and one of the main conclusions was that the rotary switches had to go, hence the gold plated? screw types they use today. The internal wiring and little plug-n-socket on the driver, which I think was still in use by then, should be bypassed too. Tannoy completely re-balanced the DC drivers in later years and the slight "rawness" in standard earlier ones has now all but gone I think.

    A chat with the chaps at Lockwoods would be helpful I think. Maybe re-wiring and thorough cleaning/replacement of the switchgear would be in order, as it's prominant on the front baffle from memory.
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
    Crying out at the top of my voice; Tell me now if you can hear me

  5. #5
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 202
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    You can try this tonearm cable. I get stunning results using it with my SME Tonearms.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  6. #6
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Lancaster(-ish), UK

    Posts: 16,937
    I'm ChrisB.

    Default

    Mike,
    I don't think you answered Martin's question on another thread about your status as a member of the trade or otherwise. If you are, then you need to have your details amended appropriately & there are certain rules that you need to observe.
    Could you please confirm your status via PM to Marco?
    Thanks

  7. #7
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Indeed. Yes, Mike, I'd appreciate it if you would.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


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