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and here is the last pictures as it is back in the box and that is the end , well for now the main spider is now 24mm thick and the base is the same https://56m9sa-db3pap001.files.1drv....&cropmode=none
https://5am9sa-db3pap001.files.1drv....&cropmode=none
https://6km9sa-db3pap001.files.1drv....&cropmode=none
https://5qm9sa-db3pap001.files.1drv....&cropmode=none
if you are going to make a spider for the gyro you will have to make a spacer the same thickness so the belt will run properly to go under the motor foot , , it is well worth doing ,a piece of 350x350 x12 mm perspex is needed (use the off cut for the spacer )
use the one off the gyro ,mark around it ,bandsaw it out (jigsaw) polish the edges and flame polish to finish , drill the 3holes for the feet using the original gyro spider as a guide , , stick it together with double sided tape and then you have a laminated gyro base, no need to drill and tap the holes for the suspension in the one you have made, as they are in the orginal one ,
cheers
peter
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Hi i forgot to add buy some small spike protectors the ones with the rubber underneath , for about £12 or buy some 1.5mm rubber sheet , £2.50p cut out some pads and place them under the feet to stop the gyro /orbe from moving around , do not get thicker ,
special plastic feet will raise the platter ,the belt will not run properly on a gyro you will have to relevel everything, I use spike protectors which have been drilled through the centre so only the rubber on the bottom of them stop the deck from moving , you can just about get away with 1.5,
I like the trick with the spike protectors that have been drilled out the rubber on them stops the deck from moving ,but the foot sits in spike protector ,
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I don't get this. Spikes are for coupling to a hard surface beneath the deck. Rubber is for decoupling, so why use spikes? Maybe I've misunderstood the above description? :scratch:
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Hi You are correct , but in this case the spike protectors have been drilled through so the so of the foot can then go through to the rubber underneith so it looks better than a piece of rubber which then stops the deck from moving if you left them as spike protectors on a gyro the belt will be out of alignment with the platter , but not on an orbe as that does not have Drive Grooves Like the platter on a gyro , so you could just buy 3 small spike protectors £13 for the ORBE but male sure they have the rubber under neath them and not green felt ,
https://6am9sa-db3pap001.files.1drv....&cropmode=none,https://7km9sa-db3pap001.files.1drv....&cropmode=none
https://66m9sa-db3pap001.files.1drv....&cropmode=none
it is better than adding plastic feet or you can just buy 1.5mm rubber to stop the deck from moving ,
i hope this helps
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so now the deck is decoupled ,held by the friction off the rubber and did not cost £20+ pounds to do , or just use a piece of rubber 1mm-1.5mm. at £2.50 .i think it looks better than just rubber , it is also decoupled in the following ways , the spiders have 1mm gasket made to decouple them , and the feet have 2mm O-rings in the grove cut by Michell ,
The arm board sits on a rubber gasket then the plastic spacer and a rubber gasket , the bolts used to hold the arm board on are nylon , and the bolts used to keep the bottom spiders and feet are nylon, The bolts in the head shell are nylon , The arm uses 4 o-rings in the base part ,and 2 o-rings in the bridge part and 2 x .5mm gaskets to the bottom of the bridge , now that is decoupled as well,
so i cannot think of anything else to add , that would be cheap to do ,
all the above can be done without remaking the entire chasee ,somehow adding weight to the gyro platter and keeping the looks , but not to drill , change the deck in any way , all the Mods done do not need a lot of money , and don’t require you to drill or add plastic padding ,sand, etc , they all work ,
The only ones that will cost a lot of money will be the making of a new foot for the motor to make the motor higher to take the spiders,
The arm board made of carbon fibre £120
Enjoy
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motor is now complete with all the mods , now weighs in at 2.93kg ,https://5qlyjq-db3pap001.files.1drv....&cropmode=none
https://66lyjq-db3pap001.files.1drv....&cropmode=none
the deck has 4 spiders and a base , the base is about 36mm thick now with the 2 spiders added , and the main spider is 24mm thick ,laminated and bolted to gether and decoupled from the 36mm base
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Hi All the spiders are all off a orbe, if you try this you would need to make the base of the motor thicker or get a spacer made to fit the bottom of the motor pod to keep the correct belt height ,
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DIY TT MOTOR PLINTH : Take an old big magnet kef b200 speaker
[IMG]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4535/...1ac88691_b.jpgGYRO 1 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]
Remove the magnet
[IMG]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4635/...28f73f3a_b.jpgGYRO 2 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4647/...52c00de3_b.jpgGYRO 3 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]
use one of the long screws to push the top plate off
[IMG]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4541/...cf9fc2ba_b.jpgGYRO 4 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]
clean up the plate with 800 wet and dry paper
[IMG]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4552/...72cabeca_b.jpgGYRO 5 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]
polish the plate and adhere some rubber feet on the bottom
[IMG]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4527/...d8ec2986_b.jpgGYRO 6 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]
and voila..you have a plinth..(which just happens to be the exact size of the motor housing) to raise the motor to the correct height..the belt now running on the second groove of the platter
[IMG]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4636/...71076879_b.jpgGYRO 7 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]
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add some weight to the inside of the tube , to stop it moving , i think there is about 30mm gap or more before the motor will touch , that will add the weight to stop the motor moving , any thing heavy will do , make sure the motor tube is central to the chasse , i like the fix , also check the bounce , if it is incorrect you are proabley touching the motor tube ,also add the support with the doughnut or pipe insulation or anything that can suport the motor properly , as michell are trying to find a way to do this , Foam pipe insulation has been intalled by another member ,
also one of the reasons the belt may be out of alignment is the bounce you have to get , orginaly the motor was screwed to the chasse the belt i think would of beed in the correct position ,
then it was put into the motor pod , this means unless you are spot on with the set up the belt will always be out of alignment , due to the way you have to level and get the bounce correct , it is not a problem on the ORBE due to the ORBE's platter design (no Groves for the belt ) hence the great difference when fitted to the gyro to make the gorbe, if you can get the belt to run correctly their is no need for the upgrade , hence the need for some adjustment on the motor base, or add spacers , the reason i needed the extra was the deck is a Odyssey 2004 , which is part Orbe , i.e base , chasse, and then gyro , platter , motor , bearing , it had one spider and a base , i had problems keeping the belt on due to the design , so i just went a bit further ,and added 3 more spiders and the base , so now it has a base that is 36mm thick , and the top spider is 24mm, the motor had the spacers made by a friend , at mates rates,
i have looked at several gyros and the belt always seems not level , this must have an effect on the belt noise that must be transmitted into the platter , Mad MOON has found a way to do this with out spending a fortune if you have an old speaker try it, it will make a difference,
:santa:
