I'm looking at getting some isolation feet/spikes for my Thorens td150. I want to fit adjustable ones as I want to keep the turntable level. I've seen pics of ones fitted with gold/silver spikes that look decent, anyone able to point me in the right direction?
Spikes don't isolate. They do the opposite. Probably a good idea with a suspended subchassis deck like the TD150.
Tell me more! Are you saying spikes don't isolate but that they are still a good idea with the turntable? Or that spikes are not going to isolate but that some other form of feet isolation would be appropriate?Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
I used a set of these under my Braun TT (also has a suspended chassis) - the base already had embedded threads though...
Knurled feet
Only require the addition of a nut to facilitate adjustment - work well - look good ... and dirt cheap.
Spikes don't isolate. They concentrate all downwards weight through a solid single point and rigidly connect the deck to the surface below. The TD150 already has its isolation in the form of subchassis suspension. By using spikes you would be making the base more rigidly connected to the shelf or stand you use. If you add soft isolating feet to it, you introduce another compliance, with unpredictable results. It could benefit or produce harmonic reactions between the subchassis suspension and the soft feet. You won't find out unless you try it. But it's not something I'd do.
This is something i dont understand.Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Perhaps in broad terms Geoff what sort of feet should decks like the 150/125/LP12 have against the feet that a 124 or garrard in a heavy plinth should have.
Sorry if this is a bit of a hijack ;)
Whatever works. It's all down to experimentation.Quote:
Originally Posted by drSM
Turntable mounted rigidly into solid plinths may benefit from the use of resilient feet, to slightly decouple them from whatever they stand on. Be it a shelf or stand, etc.
Turntables like the Thorens and Linn already have the 'mechanics' of the turntable isolated to a degree and may not require decoupling and may respond better with hard feet, like spikes.
This is something I'm tussling with at the moment...in fact, I've just yesterday purchase a set of spikes for my TT.
Is there a definitive answer to the question of what a TT should have under it? I don't think I've ever seen a concensus of opinion one way or another.
My TT (an Acoustic Research 'The Turntable') has rubber feet screwed into the base. I'm planning to replace these with the spikes and then mount the rubber feet 'neath an Ikea butcher's block, which will, of course, have the TT on top of it.
The thing my systems sits on has glass shelves, which I've read can have a detrimental effect upon sound.
Am I heading in the right direction or is this all sheer folly?
Thanks Geoff
currently i have a 124 in a pretty heavy plinth sitting on 4 sorbothane hemispheres abt 4 cm diameter.They certainly isolate the tt from resonances from the shelf, but i ve seen heavy plinths with spikes so ...
I keep my pretty hefty Toshiba SR-370 on its standard rubber feet on a rigid wall shelf and that works fine for me. Although I have used varying feet ideas with other turntables.
Oddly, I find Sorbothane feet work well under my CD player and DAC. The sound seems steadier and cleaner that way.
Absolutely correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Absolutely correct again.Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Where does this ridiculous idea that spikes isolate things come from? :scratch:
Rubber feet, Sorbothane 'lumps', suspended sub-chassis, each have a compliance. If you use more than one, they interact with each other with unpredictable results. It could be beneficial or detrimental. No way of telling without trying it.........or having suitable test equipment that tells you what is going on.
:D Must try some spikes on my car's suspension.Quote:
Originally Posted by RothwellAudio
I agree with Geoff. To put it in terms a woman could understand :sofa: the deck already has bouncy suspension. If you add more bouncy suspension then they may bounce "at each other" making two sets of suspension much worse than one.
Having said that.... if the bounce of one set is at a very different frequency to the other then it will probably be fine and may even be an improvement. My own TD150 is in a Trio (Kenwood) plinth made from a mineral loaded plastic and I have kept the original isolation feet on the plinth. They are well damped and compared to the suspended sub chassis are almost solid! I guess a few mm of sorbothane would be similar.
So it sounds like fitting feet/spikes to a thorens as a sonic "upgrade" is highly debatable. I was partly interested in adjustable feet as way of ensuring the platter is perfectly level, currently ive got a couple of sheets of folded paper underneath two of the rubber feet to ensure that it is, not ideal! I now suspect that my funds would be put to better use investing in a separate platter for the turntable to sit on that has adjustable feet and in getting the springs/turntable serviced.
Adjustable spikes aren't a bad idea - they will allow you to level the turntable and have it sit firmly on whatever it sits on. Just don't expect them to provide any isolation.
Thanks Jez, even I can understand that. Have you ever considered modding Thorens td150/160s and then selling them on? It would offer alot better value for money compared to contemporary turntables on offer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics
Yes it was partly a way of ensuring the turntable is level that I was looking into them rather than just isolation. Might just get cheap set to try out.Quote:
Originally Posted by RothwellAudio
It's not something I have any interest in no...Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon75
I have a Target wall shelf for my TT which as well as giving excellent isolation by being firmly attached to a brick wall also has.. adjustable spikes underneath the platform the TT sits on which allow levelling ;)
Spikes do not isolate a TT, but couple it to whatever support it sits on. Results can be a good or bad. As others have said it's all about experimenting. I've heard said that spikes are more suited to solid rather than suspended TTs. If someone does decide to give spikes a go, then care must be taken with what type of support the TT sits on. Obviously a flimsy rack, platform or whatever, that resonates like a good 'un will likely introduce all sorts of bad vibes. I doubt something with a very hard surface like glass or granite would be suitable either. IMO, a heavy and inert support like a sandbox, which is what I have my humble 25 year old Rotel RP-855/w RB300 coupled to, is more suitable. The Rotel was already a quiet TT, but spiking it to the sandbox further lowered the noise floor. I started off with cheap spikes to see if I liked the change in sound, then bought a more substantial albeit expensive type for better stability.
I'd not be too fussy about having a TD150 absolutely level. It's not critical. It's the deck's sub-chassis/armboard on its suspension you should try and get as level as is reasonable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon75
I like using three spikes or feet. One centrally at the back and two at the front. At least that way, you know it's not going to rock.
That's interesting, as things stand I think the armboard is level to a reasonable degree- but not perfect. I do notice that turntables made by the likes of rega and michell do not appear to come with adjustable feet fitted, I assumed this was because they would expect the folk buying them place them on a perfect level. I do notice that vpi turntables have spikes fitted. I'm learning that the suspension springs of thorens are of central importance. Thanks for the advice!Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Have you removed the foam from the springs and set it up for a good bounce?Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon75
I haven't opened it up to see what's inside, but the bounce doesn't seem that bouncy now you mention it. I'm not confident enough in technical matters to start taking it apart, I would worry I was making a complete hack job of it. It was bought on ebay replinthed a year ago, might ask a local professional to have a wee look at it, not keen to pay through the nose to someone who doesn't really know what they are talking about however.Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics