I have removed the brackets. Each driver is marked T314. and both measure about 12 ohms.
Still firmly held, so if we are sure they come out through the front then I will gently chip away at the putty.
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I have removed the brackets. Each driver is marked T314. and both measure about 12 ohms.
Still firmly held, so if we are sure they come out through the front then I will gently chip away at the putty.
Yes, looking again at your pics, I see what looks a bit like putty. In the LS3/6 and Export monitors, there is thin felt around the inside of the tweeter hole, and that makes a sort of seal. It seems a bit of a shame breaking them, they should sell on ebay, possibly for more that you get for the parts.
It looks like you could remove quite a lot of the visible putty, then perhaps try some white spirit to soften the sealant.
Sorry, but my 'reply with quote' is not working either????
Yes I'm very sorry to break them up but I even tried E bay at £20. Cost of postage too much I suppose. AND the wife has been giving me grief for them sitting around in the back bedroom for nearly two years. Incidentally the cabinets are solid mahogany and I will sneak them into the back of the shed.
I will take small chippings of the putty and put them in different solvents and see if it softens.
Apologies for the pic quality, but you can see that the two tweeters are mounted in a similar way in my LS3/6 / Export Monitors. HF1300 tweeter and HF2000 used as supertweeter
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8480/...f1b41b3a_k.jpgDSCF9577 (2) by A60man, on Flickr
Thanks Alex, but that pussy cat is a bit of an extreme way to dampen the cabinets :)
If you are going to keep the cabinets, why not keep the units in there too. I reckon that Radford speakers are going to rise in value in the future. Their valve amps are certainly very sought after, transistors ones not so much, but even those have risen in value recently (as long as they are working). I invested in a second hand STA25 III many years ago, was £150, now worth over £1000.
Yes, notice her size, she was a big cat! shame she's no longer with us. The HF1300 should come out either from front or back. Either way, as I mentioned, be careful not to strain those wires. I suppose that you could carefully cut away the baffle board, but I suspect that it is fairly thick and tough wood. Masking tape could be used to cover the front of the tweeters.
!2 Ohms resistance is just about right for the 16 Ohm HF1300
memory says they are fitted with a gasket that usually goes hard and grips solid. Usual method is to fit an oversized screw in on of holes and pull/push and it should free up
The putty is unaffected by all normal household solvents, so I am chipping it away slowly, being VERY careful around the wires - could be at this some time :)
Perhaps try a little WD40.
Those front metal grilles puzzle me a bit, even the old GEC tweeter from which I think the HF1300 is derived, have "normal" looking grilles.
http://soundup.ru/images/stories/arc...-tweeter-8.jpg
http://soundup.ru/images/stories/arc...-tweeter-7.jpg