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View Full Version : My 1210 has been hot rodded



JazzBones
12-01-2011, 16:34
I've finally put aside a long weekend, Friday am to Monday pm, to hot rod my 1210. Friday/Saturday installing the TimeStep HE psu (will come back to this one), Saturday: neatly cutting out base rubber and installing Linn arm plate (TS) and Jelco Shuggie arm collar, Monday: installing the Mike New bearing, incidentally those who recently bought the MN cheap on eBay pat yourselves on the back and be aware that you would be good at gold prospecting :), My Tekko has been on the dinning room table on a soak test for bearing and PSU... I have an understanding spouse who even did the soldering required a she is better than me and I know I'm getting an ex Lucas Hartridge Industries trained circuit board technician's job. Strobe checks throughout the past two days show that the table is running precisely spot on with no waver left or right. There is no hum or transformer noise from the TS- TE PSU, I am a happy chappy :) All I am waiting for is a bespoke arm cable from J7/Ao with Van Damme cable specified (thanks on that one DSJR).

Now back to the TS HE psu unit. This is a lovely little black number which I think is intended for 24/7 power up or a switched socket? Now here's the prob, in following the A5 instruction sheet, which incidently should be reported as, "Could do far better" (if it was a sat nav I would be lost, matey :(:rolleyes:) I was told to remove the stock OEM transformer, this obviously ment cutting all connecting wires and as a result the deck's on/off switch is bypassed but strobe light remains lit. Deck start and 33/45 rpm functions operate but I cannot cut mains power to the deck without pulling the plug from an unswitched mains socket or changing that socket for a switched one.

No mention of the power on/off was mentioned so now a plea from me, how do I restore this switch prob and has anyone else experienced this same result??? Frankly, I would like to remove the 'barrel/strobe' on/off switch and install a good quality rocker or other type of mains on'off stwich... has anyone done this. I use a good quality strobe disc plus KAB strobe light for checking sustained speed accuracy (absolutely vital, can't stand speed drift!).

As to the platter, I'm using a TS/Rubato copper mat and have an arsnel of platter mats ranging from Funky's Acro, cork, felt and so on, enough to cover a small room's floor space, already.

I am aware, from this forum, that MN's platter would be the next step but it comes at a hefty premium which I cannot support at the moment, remember I have two decks to support :eyebrows:, so plans are to use up a bit of builder's lead for roof flashing (no church has been robbed MIke :lol:) and bond this lead mat between the stock platter and Rubato copper, the first two via the Vasaline method. The combination should work, has anyone tried it?

As to the Tekko's support and table, I'll leave that info to another day, meanwhile can some one help on the switch problem please :confused:

Thanks

Ron, aka Jazz:)

UV101
12-01-2011, 18:46
If you want to reinstate the onboard on/off switch, of the loom of wires going through the chassis by the switch, there are 3 larger ones. Red, Blue & Brown.

The Blue and brown go to the switch. If you bring the new supply in onto the Blue wire and connect to brown to the PCB as per your PSU instructions, you will have a working switch. effectively, you are putting the switch back in line with the + supply.

Personally I have mine disconnected and rely on the PSU switch on the mains side. There are arguments for and against either way of doing it!

DSJR
12-01-2011, 20:47
Oh Ron, you really have it bad buddy :D

Good luck with whatever you do and hope it brings you a step closer to vinyl nirvana :)

colinB
12-01-2011, 20:58
Wow. A true enthusiast. Good luck with it Ron.
Pretty cool to have a wifey that can solder by the way.

Wakefield Turntables
12-01-2011, 21:11
Wow. A true enthusiast. Good luck with it Ron.
Pretty cool to have a wifey that can solder by the way.

please post some of your observations with regards to the improvements you find with the power supply.

JazzBones
12-01-2011, 22:33
If you want to reinstate the onboard on/off switch, of the loom of wires going through the chassis by the switch, there are 3 larger ones. Red, Blue & Brown.

The Blue and brown go to the switch. If you bring the new supply in onto the Blue wire and connect to brown to the PCB as per your PSU instructions, you will have a working switch. effectively, you are putting the switch back in line with the + supply.

Personally I have mine disconnected and rely on the PSU switch on the mains side. There are arguments for and against either way of doing it!

Thanks for the advice Ian, much appreciated. To make my life easier I think I will go with powering down after use, this will mean a switched wall socket as the TS-HE psu has not got an on/off switch like the Paul Hynes unit. Maybe later I may have a rethink, right now I just want to get the TT into the system and playing my fave LPs. :)

Ron

JazzBones
12-01-2011, 22:36
please post some of your observations with regards to the improvements you find with the power supply.

Will do ASAP but waiting on the arm cable from AO.

Cheers.
Ron

JazzBones
12-01-2011, 22:42
Oh Ron, you really have it bad buddy :D

Good luck with whatever you do and hope it brings you a step closer to vinyl nirvana :)

DaveO, is there medication or counselling from Pamela Stephenson one can take for the situation? Its amazing what you can catch off a forum; nurse, where art thou? :lol:

Ron :)

DSJR
13-01-2011, 11:42
Nah, takes one to know one - as long as I keep taking the ever increasing number of tablets, I'll be ok........