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MGK
10-03-2010, 20:25
Hi out there !!
Wondering if anyone could help with a problem I ve run into, I have a Nytech tuner amp CTA 252XDII which has been packed away for a long time, after setting it up again, there seems that the DIN shorting plug is missing or lost, does anybody know if I get buy a replacement or if I can make a replacement myself ??
MGK.......

Rare Bird
10-03-2010, 20:57
Do you know the pin din layout ID. standard din plugs with the correct pins wired together will work

Spectral Morn
10-03-2010, 22:42
Hi out there !!
Wondering if anyone could help with a problem I ve run into, I have a Nytech tuner amp CTA 252XDII which has been packed away for a long time, after setting it up again, there seems that the DIN shorting plug is missing or lost, does anybody know if I get buy a replacement or if I can make a replacement myself ??
MGK.......

Scuse me...please go to the Welcome section and say hello first. Tell us about yourself, first name please, basic location and your system and taste in music. This is a basic requirement when you join AOS.

Thank you D S D L

Rare Bird
10-03-2010, 22:54
:lolsign:

MGK
10-03-2010, 23:20
Hi Andre, I donīt know the pin Din layout ID, I read in the instruks booklet that "DIN sockets on this unit with ser no 4xxxx i.e. XD2 40288" does it mean anything ? I have a Din socket with phono leads coming out of it, would be asking for "Trouble" if I try the 6 or more shorting combinations????
MGK....

Rare Bird
11-03-2010, 01:17
Here's a Nytech '302' bridging link diagram on the rear i'm asuming yours should be the same even tho it's a '252', you can chance it & have a go i hold no responcability tho, not that it will blow anything up ;)

Looks like the bridging is:
Pins 1-3 (Left channel in to out)
Pins 4-5 (Right channel in to out)

So all you need is a new 5 Pin Din plug & away you go, get soldering..

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a222/LIVING-SIN/nytech.jpg

Good luck.

MGK
11-03-2010, 05:18
Hi, Ok I will try that and will post a message letting you know how it went.....as soon as I can get the Din plug soldered up
Many thanks for the help ;-)
MGK..

DSJR
11-03-2010, 17:39
Yep, just short pin 1 to pin 3 and pin 4 to pin 5 and you'll be away....

If you get crackes and other nasties, you may have to open the thing up and GENTLY ease the top section out a tad from the bottom one and GENTLY return, thus cleaning the myriad contacts holding the upper and lower sections together...

A total PITA to service (and early ones weren't reliable), but wonderful sounding and an endearing classic IMO.

hifi_dave
11-03-2010, 18:48
I could never understand why they crammed so much into so little space. They were an absolute nightmare. We bought in two IIRC and had trouble keeping them going long enough to be able to bang them out at trade...:stalks:

DSJR
11-03-2010, 20:58
By the time we got them at KJ in the very late seventies, they'd been sorted, although Russ Andrews, who was an agent for them then, warned us about the unreliability of the originals...

Rare Bird
12-03-2010, 00:35
By the time we got them at KJ in the very late seventies, they'd been sorted, although Russ Andrews, who was an agent for them then, warned us about the unreliability of the originals...

Tell me about it.. Re: Russ andrews. I loved my ARC '101' speekas..I posted mine youks ago in the classic galley even tho Rob seeemd to think those & other pics of mine are his pic :lol: he's not old enough to even know them
:lol: :D
Post number 26.

http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=356&page=3

DSJR
12-03-2010, 17:22
Active done right is always better than practically any passive and those who've ever compared active and passive versions of the same speaker should agree with me I think. ARC 101's and 'Briks, even with the little Nytech active system driving them, sounded really good to me, even if they didn't go hugely loud...

Rare Bird
12-03-2010, 18:18
Active done right is always better than practically any passive and those who've ever compared active and passive versions of the same speaker should agree with me I think. ARC 101's and 'Briks, even with the little Nytech active system driving them, sounded really good to me, even if they didn't go hugely loud...

Active power amps i used with the ARC's (Years ago) were A&R Cambridge 'SA60'/'A60AP' & Quantum Electronics '207DA'/'102'Pre/'402' PSU both great combinations..ARC '101' go for peanuts on E-Bay probably cos no ones heard of them.

hifi_dave
12-03-2010, 22:16
Active done right is always better than practically any passive and those who've ever compared active and passive versions of the same speaker should agree with me I think. ARC 101's and 'Briks, even with the little Nytech active system driving them, sounded really good to me, even if they didn't go hugely loud...

Er, don't count me in with that. We used to have two speakers, a 20 Tower and a 100 (I'll leave out the maker) and they both could be run passive or apply the mains and they were active. It was fairly easy to drive them with an amp which sounded better than those internal. I will say that being active with internal amps was a cheaper option though.

As for the ARC 101, the out of phase tweeter was clearly audible as a large suckout in the upper mid which meant all sorts of instruments etc would all but disappear. When activated, that suckout was smoothed over and they sounded 'better' but still not good. IMO.

Rare Bird
12-03-2010, 22:20
Anything you do like Dave?

hifi_dave
13-03-2010, 04:08
Plenty but I'm picky....:eyebrows:

Rare Bird
13-03-2010, 05:08
I gathered :lolsign:

I am that's way i don't entertain modern shite :lol:

zappa100
30-03-2010, 10:08
I got a plug made up here ...

http://www.flashbacksales.co.uk/acatalog/info.html

DSJR
30-03-2010, 16:55
...And?......

Rare Bird
31-03-2010, 15:43
Why on earth would you want to pay someone to wire a plug up for this purpose?

hifi_dave
31-03-2010, 16:09
Perhaps he can't or doesn't want to solder ?