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leo
26-11-2008, 00:44
Had a bit of time spare at the weekend so decided to knock a simple TDA1543 based dac up, no particular reason, I actually seen this design on diyaudio forum so thought I'd give it a go :lolsign:
I found some Blackgate caps sat in a box I once tried in another project along with some Caddock and Riken resistors so used those rather than let them gather dust, the amount of crap you collect in this hobby:lol:

Anyway its a fairly simple NOS dac built on matrix board with the round copper pads, theres a buffer on the input spdif supplying the CS8412 which converts to I2S and supplies the TDA1543 (wired underneath of board)
Voltage to the dac chip is 8v, I/V is passive , coupling capacitors on the output are a pair of Siemans MKV which got some hype on various forums, I got these for a massive 2quid on fleabay the other year.
I first tried BG's in this position but liked the MKV's better in this app

Its currently being powered from a pair of YUASA 12v bats, each part has its own separate reg including the VA and VD supplies for the CS8412.
Not including the parts I already had stashed away it cost me ten quid, thats basically the little case from Maplin

The sound is actually not bad, mids are very sweet, I'm not a great fan of Blackgate capacitors but they seem to work quite decent in this dac

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/kingbusoms/010-1.jpg

Puffin
26-11-2008, 20:13
Excellent work.

Filterlab
26-11-2008, 21:09
Very nice as usual Leo, your work is always just so tidy. :)

Out of interest, what do you do with the things you make and then don't use? Do you dismantle it or sell it or keep it?

leo
27-11-2008, 03:58
Thanks chaps, it does look very diy but not too bad for Matrix boards I guess, a circuit like this doesn't really need an etched pcb

Sometimes I'll strip things down and re-use the parts, it's rare I sell anything, sometimes just give them to friends if I feel they perform good enough
The hyped stuff is compared to my current favourite and passed on after I've had my fun with it if I feel I won't use it.
Main two I think I'll be keeping is the TDA1541S2 based AYA and the Sabre based dac

Filterlab
27-11-2008, 14:19
I'm always up for trying out DACs and things, if you ever have something you feel is good enough to pass on I'll gladly offer you cash for components. :)

clark_chen
28-11-2008, 08:23
I found a TDA1543+DIR9001 NOS DAC Board here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290278531692&category=81741&_trksid=p3907.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D 15%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D54

its price only $49.99, Free shipping,

http://images.tupianguanjia.com/bin/3455/HIFI/1543_001.jpg

alb
28-11-2008, 08:37
Clark.

Now you are advertising on AOS, perhaps you could offer us all a healthy discount.:eyebrows:

Marco
28-11-2008, 10:09
Hi Clark,

How very entrepreneurial! Welcome to AOS :)

Does your DAC sound any good though? Perhaps the likes of Leo could give it the once over and offer his thoughts on component quality.

Marco.

leo
28-11-2008, 12:56
Send us one to play with and I'll even compare it against my cheapo before and after mods;)

Looking at the schematic on there theres a few things I'd personally change, as it is, output is going to be very low, even lower than the one I built but it can easily be tweaked.

A simple design like these use passive I/V , the component quality has quite and influence on the sound

Once I've done some more on the Sabre I may have a play with one of these and start another thread

clark_chen
28-11-2008, 14:23
Thank you! This is the HIFIDIY.NET 's products, http://us.hifidiy.net/ , Here have more detailed presentation,

Yomanze
07-12-2008, 18:02
Nice build Leo. :)

I see that you followed the Peter Daniel style, looks incredibly neat! Do you know of any sources of CS8412CP? They're like hen's teeth and I have a handful of CS8412CS, but don't like mounting them on adapters...

Yomanze
07-12-2008, 18:40
Woohoo, just picked up a CS8412CP from eBay for £21.57 inc P&P. It is NOT very often you see them for that price these days. Could only stretch to the one as it's November, but that's made my day. Some other idiot is selling them for £100!

jonners
02-01-2009, 21:05
I recently bought one of Clark Chen's TDA1543 boards, referred to earlier in this thread. The board is very thick, good quality and some thought has obviously been given to components - Nichicon and Sanyo Oscon caps, Dale I/V resistors. A good deal at the price, I think.

I have changed the supply to the dac chip from 5V to 8V, I/V resistors are now 2k7 and the Vref resistor is changed to 1k5. The changes have beefed up the slightly anaemic, shut-in sound of the stock board and I'm very pleased with the way it's developing as it settles in.

Circuit of the board as supplied is here:http://www.pic16.com/soft/TDA1543SCH.pdf

If anyone -Leo?- has ideas for other tweaks/improvements I would like to hear about them and try them out.

John

leo
03-01-2009, 11:23
With such a simple circuit like these I'd recommend you try some component alternatives , even the resistors make a difference with these dacs, they are actually one of the few circuits I'd mess about with things like cap and resistor brands especially for the I/V stage and output signal coupling.

A good mod that you've already done is increase dac voltage and adjust I/V and VREF resistors, 8v seems to be the optimum if using passive I/V

I don't know the DIR9001 well enough yet so not sure if the PLL can be tweaked like the older CS841* types

Build it a nice little PSU if the standard one isn't up to much, I'd personally do dual output and do a few alterations to the board so you can feed the Dac separate, you don't have to go that far, just a nice little single supply would be ok.
If the input diode after the DC socket is a standard 1N4001 type try something like UF4001 , BYV26 etc

Edit, I'd have given the Dir9001 analogue and digitial supply pin separate regulation rather than having these pins share the same reg, it makes an improvement to the other receiver chips so should do the same for this.

I guess you could try a 1:1 pulse transormer on the SPDIF input
Nothing new regarding mods I'm afraid but these dacs are so simple:)

jonners
03-01-2009, 12:45
Leo - Thanks for your input. Hours of amusement lie ahead!

I'm now following the dac with one of these fet buffers: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STEREO-FET-BUFFER-FOR-DAC-PREAMPLIFIER-TAPE-REC_W0QQitemZ350115207329QQihZ022QQcategoryZ12050Q QcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

The sound is very natural and believable.

John

Tripmaster
08-01-2009, 21:12
I recently bought one of Clark Chen's TDA1543 boards, referred to earlier in this thread. The board is very thick, good quality and some thought has obviously been given to components - Nichicon and Sanyo Oscon caps, Dale I/V resistors. A good deal at the price, I think.

I have changed the supply to the dac chip from 5V to 8V, I/V resistors are now 2k7 and the Vref resistor is changed to 1k5. The changes have beefed up the slightly anaemic, shut-in sound of the stock board and I'm very pleased with the way it's developing as it settles in.

Circuit of the board as supplied is here:http://www.pic16.com/soft/TDA1543SCH.pdf

If anyone -Leo?- has ideas for other tweaks/improvements I would like to hear about them and try them out.

John

Hi Jonners/Leo

I quite fancy buying one of these...after a failed attempt at the cheap Cirrus Logic DAC I now think its time to destroy another one.

How does the TDA1543 sound when compared with the Cirrus Logic?

Thanks

Richard

jonners
08-01-2009, 21:31
Hi Richard -

At the moment I'm preferring the 1543 - but maybe I just like change! I think it just sounds more natural and present, whereas the Cirrus has a slightly more 'processed' feeling as if everything is wrapped in plastic film - if that makes any sense.
Sir Thomas Beecham famously said "The English don't like music, they just like the sound it makes". If I put the sound before the music I would prefer the Cirrus but, even though I'm English, I prefer the music of the 1543.
Hope this helps. Good luck if you decide to go for it, it's very simple so it's harder to mess up than the Cirrus. ;)

John

Tripmaster
08-01-2009, 22:29
Hi Richard -

At the moment I'm preferring the 1543 - but maybe I just like change! I think it just sounds more natural and present, whereas the Cirrus has a slightly more 'processed' feeling as if everything is wrapped in plastic film - if that makes any sense.
Sir Thomas Beecham famously said "The English don't like music, they just like the sound it makes". If I put the sound before the music I would prefer the Cirrus but, even though I'm English, I prefer the music of the 1543.
Hope this helps. Good luck if you decide to go for it, it's very simple so it's harder to mess up than the Cirrus. ;)

John

Hi John

Thanks for replying.

What made you go for the 1543 over the PCM1793?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290287927373

Richard

jonners
08-01-2009, 22:44
What made you go for the 1543 over the PCM1793?



Just wanted to try the non-os thing.

John

Tripmaster
08-01-2009, 22:52
Hi John

I guess the PCM will sound similar to the Cirrus. I am going to order three additional TDA1543 chips for a possible later upgrade. Only 98p each!

Richard

Tripmaster
08-01-2009, 22:56
What power supply are you using?

leo
09-01-2009, 00:09
How does the TDA1543 sound when compared with the Cirrus Logic?

Thanks

Richard

They are totally different, the CS4397 is more lively digital sounding, it had more bass and HF extension , the TDA1543 I built has a much more seductive midrange.
When I built mine and after it had plenty of running in Alison Krauss's voice sent a tingle down my back:lolsign: its certainly not a perfect dac but with some music it can sound very nice.
My best advice if building a dac based around TDA1543, experiment with the parts!

If you can build it on vero I'd give it a go, I wouldn't bother with the pcb version tbh

leo
09-01-2009, 00:13
What power supply are you using?

Adding a pair of DC sockets lets me use either a pair of 12v batts or a pair of linears using a 9v transformer, Ultrafast diodes, CLRC filter

I've now upped the capacitance of the caps before the dacs regs, they are now 1000uf

jonners
09-01-2009, 08:47
What power supply are you using?


At the moment I'm using a simple 12V DC supply with fast diodes and a 1000uF Black Gate. The instructions with the pcb ask for 9V DC, but I found that 12V is fine. It doesn't overheat the regs, and it enabled me to up the output of the 317 reg to give 8V to the 1543.

John

Tripmaster
09-01-2009, 18:18
Thanks for your help.

I decided to order the TDA1543 PCB with 3 additional DAC chips to facilitate further upgrades. If I don’t end up by stacking the chips I will use them on some Vero board.

Leo...would it be too much trouble to take a couple of photos of the bottom of your Vero board?

Thanks

Richard :)

leo
09-01-2009, 21:25
Thanks for your help.

I decided to order the TDA1543 PCB with 3 additional DAC chips to facilitate further upgrades. If I don’t end up by stacking the chips I will use them on some Vero board.

Leo...would it be too much trouble to take a couple of photos of the bottom of your Vero board?

Thanks

Richard :)


It wouldn't help much tbh, the dac chip is on the bottom and theres a mass of separate grounding wires which is hard to follow looking at the board

The dac I built is based on PD's which is based on Kusunoki dac http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=688219&stamp=1122133987

You may need to join up at diyaudio.com to see the diagram

I've edited the below drawing to try and make it easier , you don't have to use the SPDIF comparator but it really does work better with it, this dac can also be made easier, I basically prefer to have separate grounds so it makes it a bit more crowded

Check the pin out for the chosen regulators

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/kingbusoms/tda1543.jpg

Tripmaster
09-01-2009, 21:42
It wouldn't help much tbh, the dac chip is on the bottom and theres a mass of separate grounding wires which is hard to follow looking at the board

The dac I built is based on PD's which is based on Kusunoki dac http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=688219&stamp=1122133987

You may need to join up at diyaudio.com to see the diagram

I've edited the below drawing to try and make it easier , you don't have to use the SPDIF comparator but it really does work better with it, this dac can also be made easier, I basically prefer to have separate grounds so it makes it a bit more crowded

Check the pin out for the chosen regulators

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/kingbusoms/tda1543.jpg

Thanks Leo I will have a close look.

I built the Shigaclone transport from DIYaudio

leo
09-01-2009, 21:50
This dac would go nice with it:)

Marco
09-01-2009, 22:54
Hi Leo,

I hope you're having a pleasant evening.

I popped in to see if you're happy with your controls and new title as "Circuit Junkie" with the Moderators rights attached to it for use in this room? :)

When you get a chance I'd like you think about constructing an FAQ for the D.I.Y room here and how you would like the room laid out in terms of which topics you'd like to make into 'Stickies' and perhaps about organising a photo gallery like there is on the main section of the forum but purely for D.I.Y projects/circuit diagrams.

And if you have any suggestions of your own please don't hesitate to put them forward :smoking:

Marco.

Tripmaster
12-01-2009, 23:42
Hi Leo

Whilst I am waiting for the dac to arrive (Same as Johns) I thought I may as well put a PSU together.

I have started building the psu below for one of my lm3886 chipamps and wondered if I could use the same layout with some component substitution.

If the power supply is suitable I have some LM317T/337 regulators and some 1000uf caps, what other components would you change and what size transformer would you recommend?

Thanks
Richard

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/gcreglayout.gif

leo
13-01-2009, 00:29
That PSU is certainly suitable, you can use what transformer you like, its not really critical, basically something not too expensive as it would be a waste to use a great big thing.
Mines 12v 80vA which is overkill, I used that because its what I had in the junk box. I would not use much higher than a 15v one
You could parallel a pair of those 1000uf caps or even have a low value resistor on the output of one cap feeding the other to add a bit more filtering

Just one of those regulated PSU's with a LM317 is all thats needed for that ebay dac, set its output to about 12v DC if your going to increase the onboard dac reg to 8v.
It maybe worth increasing the output cap on the reg to about 47uf too.

jonners
13-01-2009, 20:05
I'm thinking of trying an active I/V stage with the TDA1543. (The Rudolf Broertjes one). I understand that I need to remove the passive I/V resistors and take the outputs direct from the chip, but I'm not sure what to do about the Vref resistor. I've seen one recommendation to use 3K3 'as in the data sheet' - but the data sheet that I have doesn't specify the value for it, and says the resistor is 'optional'.
Leo? - I'd be grateful if you can help on this one.

John

Tripmaster
13-01-2009, 20:42
Hi John

Would you happen to have a picture of the resistor mod on your dac? And what were the values?

Thanks

Richard

jonners
13-01-2009, 21:04
No pics at the moment, but I changed the two I/V resistors from 1K to 2K4. (They're the ones going between pin 6 and earth, and between pin 8 and earth.
I changed Rref from 1K to 1K5. (That's the one between pin 7 and earth. For some strange reason it's labelled C16 on the circuit diag!)

Hope this helps.

John

Tripmaster
13-01-2009, 22:57
Hi Leo

Something like this?

I have tried to keep everything close together and I have also built this bridge rectifier to go with it, I guess I only need 4 diodes on this bridge.

Does it look ok?

You suggested changing the output cap to 47uf...so should change the last cap to one of these. The output should be about 8.08v

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/negside.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/side.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/bridge.jpg

Thanks for your help

Richard

Tripmaster
13-01-2009, 22:58
No pics at the moment, but I changed the two I/V resistors from 1K to 2K4. (They're the ones going between pin 6 and earth, and between pin 8 and earth.
I changed Rref from 1K to 1K5. (That's the one between pin 7 and earth. For some strange reason it's labelled C16 on the circuit diag!)

Hope this helps.

John

Hi John

Thanks for the info, it will make sense when I have the board in front of me.:scratch:

Richard

Tripmaster
13-01-2009, 23:17
Hi

I have just realised I should set the output to 12vdc..duh!

Resistors at the ready!:)

jonners
13-01-2009, 23:24
Thanks for the info, it will make sense when I have the board in front of me.:scratch:



I'm sure it will. The resistors in question are the ones in between the two green rectangular caps.

John

Tripmaster
14-01-2009, 07:02
I'm sure it will. The resistors in question are the ones in between the two green rectangular caps.

John

Thanks John

Did you replace them with dale or std metal film?

Richard

jonners
14-01-2009, 08:08
Thanks John

Did you replace them with dale or std metal film?

Richard

I used Takame from HiFi collective, but some people seem to like cheapo carbon film from Farnell.

John

leo
14-01-2009, 12:23
Hi Leo

Something like this?

I have tried to keep everything close together and I have also built this bridge rectifier to go with it, I guess I only need 4 diodes on this bridge.

Does it look ok?

You suggested changing the output cap to 47uf...so should change the last cap to one of these. The output should be about 8.08v

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/negside.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/side.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/bridge.jpg

Thanks for your help

Richard

Is that vero board strip copper? if so I presume you did cuts on the bottom of the board? it looks like the output cap is going to the regs input pin, it maybe the picture tricking my eyes

It looks nice and compact though and should fit easily in small case

leo
14-01-2009, 17:16
I'm thinking of trying an active I/V stage with the TDA1543. (The Rudolf Broertjes one). I understand that I need to remove the passive I/V resistors and take the outputs direct from the chip, but I'm not sure what to do about the Vref resistor. I've seen one recommendation to use 3K3 'as in the data sheet' - but the data sheet that I have doesn't specify the value for it, and says the resistor is 'optional'.
Leo? - I'd be grateful if you can help on this one.

John


Yes, remove the I/V resistors, I presume your building this? http://diyparadise.com/ssiv.html if so adjust RiV for output, 1k5 is probably ok for TDA1543, if its too high just lower the RiV resistors or increase for higher output.
I've not tried this stage with TDA1543, I'd look at its output on a scope, play a 0db sinewave and adjust it for best reading making sure theres no clipping.
I think you can leave your existing VREF resistor as is or maybe try a 5k trimmer pot to allow easy adjustments, its for the TDA1543's bias current

jonners
14-01-2009, 17:44
Thanks for your help again Leo.

John

Tripmaster
14-01-2009, 19:42
Hi Leo

Thanks for checking...I think I need to make an appointment with an optometrist! The output cap was on the input.

Would you recommend changing the output cap from 0.47uf to 47uf? And should I wire my transformer as a centre tap or use both secondaries?

Thanks

Richard:)

Tripmaster
14-01-2009, 22:10
CPC/Farnell are selling off various components and I managed to get 11 transformers for 69p each. I have plans for this one;)

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/12vTrans.jpg

leo
14-01-2009, 23:42
Hi Leo

Thanks for checking...I think I need to make an appointment with an optometrist! The output cap was on the input.

Would you recommend changing the output cap from 0.47uf to 47uf? And should I wire my transformer as a centre tap or use both secondaries?

Thanks

Richard:)

I'd probably change the cap to 47uf if using a lead from that psu to the dac, sometimes better to keep the lower value if the circuit on the output of the psu is close

For my linear I use full wave rectification for each of the dual secondaries of the transformers, this then allows a separate supply for the analogue and dig part

If that dac only allows a single supply I'd probably just use full wave rectification for one of the secondary pairs, not worth doing centre tap as you don't need a -v supply

Tripmaster
15-01-2009, 13:38
I'd probably change the cap to 47uf if using a lead from that psu to the dac, sometimes better to keep the lower value if the circuit on the output of the psu is close

For my linear I use full wave rectification for each of the dual secondaries of the transformers, this then allows a separate supply for the analogue and dig part

If that dac only allows a single supply I'd probably just use full wave rectification for one of the secondary pairs, not worth doing centre tap as you don't need a -v supply

Thanks again Leo, I will get the soldering iron out tonight:)

Tripmaster
15-01-2009, 15:55
I'd probably change the cap to 47uf if using a lead from that psu to the dac, sometimes better to keep the lower value if the circuit on the output of the psu is close

For my linear I use full wave rectification for each of the dual secondaries of the transformers, this then allows a separate supply for the analogue and dig part

If that dac only allows a single supply I'd probably just use full wave rectification for one of the secondary pairs, not worth doing centre tap as you don't need a -v supply

Hi Leo

Sorry to be a pain, you love it really!;)

You suggested using just one of the secondary windings with a full wave bridge rectifier. What do I do with the unused secondary winding? Do I join them together with a terminal block or leave them disconnected?

I have only ever configured a centre tap or used both secondary windings.

Thanks again

Richard

leo
15-01-2009, 18:12
Hi Leo

Sorry to be a pain, you love it really!;)

You suggested using just one of the secondary windings with a full wave bridge rectifier. What do I do with the unused secondary winding? Do I join them together with a terminal block or leave them disconnected?

I have only ever configured a centre tap or used both secondary windings.

Thanks again

Richard


You can parallel the pair of secondarys, be careful with phase though.
Do you have the spec sheet for the transformer?

leo
15-01-2009, 18:14
Just noticed the pic above for the blue traffo.
Join the pair of 0v together and the 12v together to give you parallel output

connect to rectifier like this http://webpages.ursinus.edu/lriley/ref/circuits/img67.gif

Tripmaster
15-01-2009, 23:58
Hello

I thought I would post a few photos before the day is out :)

Have I wired the transformer correctly?

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/regpsu.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/top-1.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/base1.jpg

Thanks again

Richard

leo
16-01-2009, 00:51
Looks fine:)

Double check your regged PSU board too just to be 100%, It looks ok but hard to be sure going by the pic, also don't forget the various track cuts on the vero which can short parts out you don't want it to

Tripmaster
16-01-2009, 09:01
Looks fine:)

Double check your regged PSU board too just to be 100%, It looks ok but hard to be sure going by the pic, also don't forget the various track cuts on the vero which can short parts out you don't want it to


'Last edited by Leo; Today at 12:56 AM.' 1pm on a school night, you need an early night! ;)

These photos make my soldering look terrible (Honest!)

I haven't made any cuts on the regulated strip board but I have made the necessary cuts between the diodes on the bridge rectifier. Do I need to cut the regulated strip board, I didnt think I had to?

Here are some close ups...I will check for shorts again tonight before powering up:steam:

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/baseofrectifier.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/baseofreg.jpg

Tripmaster
16-01-2009, 09:14
Last question for now;)

I am assuming I will only need to use four of the eight rectifier diodes with this transformer, and the connection will be as follows...

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/stripboard_bridge_layout.jpg

audio1st
17-01-2009, 10:47
Hi Tripmaster, that transformers secondaries are shorted by connecting 12v to 0v. Parallel is connecting 12v to 12 v and 0v to 0v and connect your reg board between 12v and 0v..
Regards Barry.

Puffin
17-01-2009, 10:59
;)

Tripmaster
17-01-2009, 11:17
Hi Tripmaster, that transformers secondaries are shorted by connecting 12v to 0v. Parallel is connecting 12v to 12 v and 0v to 0v and connect your reg board between 12v and 0v..
Regards Barry.

Hi Barry

Haven't I done this?

I have both 12v supplies going to the same output and the same with both 0v

Richard

audio1st
17-01-2009, 11:21
Hi Richard, you are right, I thought the green block was the output on the transformer and didn't see the underside :mental:

Tripmaster
17-01-2009, 11:35
Hi Richard, you are right, I thought the green block was the output on the transformer and didn't see the underside :mental:

Thanks Barry

Better safe then sorry!

All of these late night sessions are starting to catch up with me :stalks:

Richard

audio1st
17-01-2009, 11:36
I am still running my chip at 5v.
Using it with an active pre so it sounds good to me..

Tripmaster
17-01-2009, 11:45
I am still running my chip at 5v.
Using it with an active pre so it sounds good to me..

It looks tidy, mine arrived yesterday

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/Dactop.jpg

I'm just using a 9v plug top adaptor for the moment, I will order some quality resistors from HIFI collective over the weekend and then add the new psu next week.

It has a nice warm mid range when compared to the cheap cirrus logic dac

What mods have you done?

Richard :)

audio1st
17-01-2009, 12:15
First thing I did was remove the power LED, I'm sure this opened up the top end?? Bypassed the power-in diode and changed the output caps.. The other LED I left because it goes out when locked on signal.
That's it for now!
Barry:)

Tripmaster
17-01-2009, 12:23
Barry

Should I just use 4 of the 8 diodes on my bridge rectifier with this transformer?

Thanks

audio1st
17-01-2009, 12:29
Just 4, you don't need +-12v.;)
Barry:)

Tripmaster
17-01-2009, 12:59
Just 4, you don't need +-12v.;)
Barry:)

Hi Barry

I have only assembled kits and modified up till now. I know ive been a bit of a post 'a' holic in this thread but this psu is really simple once built.

I hope the pictures help other newbies :sofa:

Thanks again Barry

Richard:)

leo
17-01-2009, 13:18
I've edited the pic to show how to increase output if needed
You just increase I/V resistors to 2k7, increase VREF resistor to 1k5.
Set LM317 regulator to output 8v changing resistor from output + adjust to 220R and adjust + gnd to 1k2

I'd also try removing those green 2200pf FKP caps and see what it sounds like

Also try an alternative pair of signal DC coupling caps instead of those silver Axial tants

Certainly remove the Led on the output of the reg supplying the dac chip, leaving it there gives possible noise

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/kingbusoms/1543_001top.jpg

leo
17-01-2009, 13:25
http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/baseofreg.jpg

Look at the output of that regulator (middle pin) unless you have added a link it don't seem to be going to the output socket, from what I can see your input voltage from the socket goes straight to the output socket so its not being regulated

Problem with vero especially strip board is that you have to be careful those strips for one part of circuit are not shorting other parts of circuit, remember the strips are in lines, you normally add breaks in those strips where needed so not to cause shorts, you then add links from one layer of strip to another

Its hard to explain by text, can you read a schematic?

leo
17-01-2009, 13:31
Last question for now;)

I am assuming I will only need to use four of the eight rectifier diodes with this transformer, and the connection will be as follows...

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/stripboard_bridge_layout.jpg

This looks fine, yes you only need four, basically this will give you the single +v Dc and gnd from your parallel secondary winding

Tripmaster
17-01-2009, 15:25
I've edited the pic to show how to increase output if needed
You just increase I/V resistors to 2k7, increase VREF resistor to 1k5.
Set LM317 regulator to output 8v changing resistor from output + adjust to 220R and adjust + gnd to 1k2

I'd also try removing those green 2200pf FKP caps and see what it sounds like

Also try an alternative pair of signal DC coupling caps instead of those silver Axial tants

Certainly remove the Led on the output of the reg supplying the dac chip, leaving it there gives possible noise

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/kingbusoms/1543_001top.jpg


Hi Leo

That was a long sleep;)

Thanks for the edited photo.

I think this is the resistor brand John went for

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/takman_resistors.html

Do you think its worth changing all of the above resistors with these or just I/V & VREF and the regulator with metal film?

Richard

Tripmaster
17-01-2009, 16:52
Look at the output of that regulator (middle pin) unless you have added a link it don't seem to be going to the output socket, from what I can see your input voltage from the socket goes straight to the output socket so its not being regulated

Problem with vero especially strip board is that you have to be careful those strips for one part of circuit are not shorting other parts of circuit, remember the strips are in lines, you normally add breaks in those strips where needed so not to cause shorts, you then add links from one layer of strip to another

Its hard to explain by text, can you read a schematic?

And on to the next one...

OMG I have stared at this strip board so many times and failed notice the output wasn't going anywhere :doh:

I have added a link and also cut the tracks in various places, as you can just about see in the two images below

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/bottomwithlinksandcuts.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/topwithlinks.jpg

I have put a meter on the board and I cant find any shorts. Does it look ok now?

Richard

leo
17-01-2009, 22:09
Hi Leo

That was a long sleep;)

Thanks for the edited photo.

I think this is the resistor brand John went for

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/takman_resistors.html

Do you think its worth changing all of the above resistors with these or just I/V & VREF and the regulator with metal film?

Richard

I'd just use those for the I/V and VREF, the other two is just for setting the regulator voltage.

leo
17-01-2009, 22:13
And on to the next one...

OMG I have stared at this strip board so many times and failed notice the output wasn't going anywhere :doh:

I have added a link and also cut the tracks in various places, as you can just about see in the two images below

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/bottomwithlinksandcuts.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/topwithlinks.jpg

I have put a meter on the board and I cant find any shorts. Does it look ok now?

Richard

Hmm, well it seems ok, bit hard to be 100% going by a pic, nothing stands out at the minute:eyebrows:

Tripmaster
17-01-2009, 23:31
:dance:

Yippeeeee!

I just got it working when you posted your last message

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/Multimeter.jpg

Its been a long trip for a simple psu, but well worth it. I'm going to make another two tomorrow for my chipamp....just try and stop me!

Thanks a lot for all your help

Richard :)

leo
18-01-2009, 01:03
Well done Rich :cool:

Now don't forget to increase the voltage output if you intend on doing the higher output mod on the dac as the dacs onboard reg will need a few volts higher to work properly;) if you intend on keeping the dac voltage at 5v and not doing the higher output mod then the 8v regged psu is fine

Puffin
18-01-2009, 08:13
:gig:

Tripmaster
18-01-2009, 10:06
:gig:

cut the mid-range, drop the bass!

Tripmaster
18-01-2009, 10:54
Well done Rich :cool:

Now don't forget to increase the voltage output if you intend on doing the higher output mod on the dac as the dacs onboard reg will need a few volts higher to work properly;) if you intend on keeping the dac voltage at 5v and not doing the higher output mod then the 8v regged psu is fine

Yes I will, I thought it would be interesting to compare the difference between the plug top adaptor and the home made supply.

Measuring output

Before connecting the 12v transformer to the rectifier I measured the AC voltage and was slightly surprised to read 15.30v (I know this doesn't matter). I then quickly worked out the rectified DC voltage before connecting the transformer to the bridge rectifier (15.30*1.41=21.57vdc)

The meter only read 13.22v on one bridge and 13.05v on the other. Do you know why the voltage is lower than I expected?

Richard

leo
18-01-2009, 11:08
Yes I will, I thought it would be interesting to compare the difference between the plug top adaptor and the home made supply.

Measuring output

Before connecting the 12v transformer to the rectifier I measured the AC voltage and was slightly surprised to read 15.30v (I know this doesn't matter). I then quickly worked out the rectified DC voltage before connecting the transformer to the bridge rectifier (15.30*1.41=21.57vdc)

The meter only read 13.22v on one bridge and 13.05v on the other. Do you know why the voltage is lower than I expected?

Richard

Was this with just the recitifer? if so its because theres no smoothing caps connected yet, soon as you connect those it should give a better reading;)
Also expect some small drop in voltage (Raw supply before regulation) once its been loaded

Tripmaster
18-01-2009, 11:20
Was this with just the recitifer? if so its because theres no smoothing caps connected yet, soon as you connect those it should give a better reading;)
Also expect some small drop in voltage (Raw supply before regulation) once its been loaded

Learning with Leo

Yes, it was just taken from the rectifier, I will try taking a reading after the two smoothing caps but before the regulator. In the past I have only ever taken a psu reading from in front of the smoothing caps :doh:

I have learnt quite a bit this week, its been very useful:)

Richard

Tripmaster
18-01-2009, 11:24
Bourns Trim Pots

What resistance value/leg configuration would you recommend for one of these PSUs?

It would be nice to quickly dial-in the correct voltage.

Richard

NRG
18-01-2009, 12:37
A few other titbits about power supplies...

When calculating Vdc you should take of half the ripple voltage…

Ripple is calculated for 50Hz supply as

0.01s x Ima / Reservoir Cap (uf)

For 50Hz, 100mA and 100uF res cap:

0.01 x 0.1 / 0.0001 = 10Vpk-pk

So your calculated 21.5v would be reduced by 5v in this example. Ripple voltage should be under 20% of the desired voltage and ideally 5% of the voltage…

Also watch out for ripple current which can be up to 6 times the DC load current…spec your res cap and diodes to 6x load current.

Puffin
18-01-2009, 12:38
5k?

leo
18-01-2009, 13:31
5k?

Yes, that would give quite a wide range using a 220R or 240R out to adjust resistor

leo
18-01-2009, 13:33
A few other titbits about power supplies...

When calculating Vdc you should take of half the ripple voltage…

Ripple is calculated for 50Hz supply as

0.01s x Ima / Reservoir Cap (uf)

For 50Hz, 100mA and 100uF res cap:

0.01 x 0.1 / 0.0001 = 10Vpk-pk

So your calculated 21.5v would be reduced by 5v in this example. Ripple voltage should be under 20% of the desired voltage and ideally 5% of the voltage…

Also watch out for ripple current which can be up to 6 times the DC load current…spec your res cap and diodes to 6x load current.

Titbits always come in useful!
Richard has plenty to be taking in, hope he's making notes:eyebrows:

Tripmaster
18-01-2009, 15:16
Titbits always come in useful!
Richard has plenty to be taking in, hope he's making notes:eyebrows:

I most certainly do:scratch:

I used a couple of 5k pots in a similar psu a couple of months back

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/SoapTOP.jpg

Tripmaster
18-01-2009, 15:18
Thanks NRG

Puffin
18-01-2009, 20:17
Two can play at that game.

Tripmaster
18-01-2009, 20:26
Two can play at that game.

Bobbie Brown?;)

Tripmaster
18-01-2009, 22:47
Hello

Will either of these trim pots be suitable for an adjustable PSU (LM338T & LM317) I also intend to build a regulated PSU for a LM3886 dual mono chipamp.

http://uk.farnell.com/bourns/3296w-1-502lf/trimmer-25-turn-5k/dp/9353291

or

http://uk.farnell.com/bourns/3296-1-502lf/trimmer-25-turn-5k/dp/9353631

Is the pin spacing correct for my strip board power supply?

Thanks

Richard

p.s Puffin, I hope you are not planning to mess on my head ;)

leo
18-01-2009, 23:49
Any of those will be ok, you just bend the middle pin flat to the bottom of the blue base (being careful not to snap it off) and solder to one of the outer pins anyway and slide in the pair of outer pins through the board holes where the resistor was

Tripmaster
19-01-2009, 06:56
Any of those will be ok, you just bend the middle pin flat to the bottom of the blue base (being careful not to snap it off) and solder to one of the outer pins anyway and slide in the pair of outer pins through the board holes where the resistor was

Thanks Leo:)

Tripmaster
20-01-2009, 23:28
Good evening

I thought I'd post a quick update...:)

I've ordered the Takman resistors from Hifi Collective and they should hopefully arrive tomorrow. The DACs been running on the home made 8v power supply for a couple of days and there is a clear improvement when compared to the 9v plug top adaptor. I have also changed the resistors on the power supply, and its output has increased to 11.7v in preparation for the additional parts.

I paired the Shigaclone with the DAC for the first time tonight and I'm quite impressed!

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/side-1.jpg

Richard


p.s Im such a thread hog...Erik! ;)

Tripmaster
22-01-2009, 22:10
I am now running the DAC at 8v and there's a notable improvement :eyebrows:

Beechwoods
22-01-2009, 22:46
I like the look of that transport. Looks like a neat project :)

Tripmaster
22-01-2009, 23:09
I like the look of that transport. Looks like a neat project :)

Thanks! It was a really fun project...well its kinda ongoing. I cant really take credit for the design as I got the basic idea from Audio1st;)

I am planning to build another case, but I tend to faff around too much and it takes forever to get anything completed:scratch:

Beechwoods
22-01-2009, 23:12
For me, I like things to look a bit homemade (they always do anyway if I'm doing it!) - I think it's me trying to be anti-bling!

jonners
29-04-2009, 22:01
I'm still tinkering on and off with my TDA1543 dac. I've been using a solid state I/V stage and been pretty pleased with the results, but the other day I saw an interesting post on diyAudio by the very inventive ecdesigns:

Basically his idea is to use resistors for passive I/V, but to reference them to +3V with alkaline batteries. The reference pin 7 is left unconnected. The way to do it is shown here:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1813308#post1813308 (See the circuit diag. at the bottom of the post).

The result in my system is to create a very noticeable increase in clarity and realism. It's a simple mod, and well worth trying I think.

leo
30-04-2009, 09:24
Interesting mod John, I'll have to give it a try

leo
30-04-2009, 19:01
Ok, just gave this a go.

My Simple dac is ran from a 8v reg with 2k7 I/V resistors with a 1k5 REF resistor.
Instead of ripping the bits out and changing I decided to knock another dac section up on vero and tap into the main I2S, if you notice in the pic first page theres a pin socket which I added originally to allow Asynchronous reclocking etc

So, for the dac we now have 5v from a discrete Swenson reg I built ages ago.
TDA1543 REF pin left floating, I/V resistors 680R, poly 2n2 caps and 3v bias supplied from a pair of AA bats

First thing to note is that output is greatly reduced, the upside is that it sounds great:lol: seriously for what it is its very good.
No its not as good as my Sabre or AYA but for cheap and an easy thing its not bad at all!
Worth looking into further me thinks:)

leo
30-04-2009, 19:52
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/kingbusoms/003-2.jpg

Tripmaster
05-05-2009, 17:33
Hi Leo

I intend to replace the on-board output coupling capacitors with a pair AMPOHM 3.3uf polyprops. Would you recommend adding a low pass filter after the AMPOHMs? I recently built a pair of Pedja Rodic's discrete buffers and these had a 4.7uf coupling cap, 75R resistor, followed by a 47n capacitor.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Richard :)

leo
05-05-2009, 22:57
You can add some LPF if you like but I don't think its really needed tbh, I tried additional filtering but thought it sounded better without, its easy to ruin whats lieable with these dacs, simplicity is the key
Does your dac sound bright? edgy?

Thinking about it, is it that ebay dac you use? I think those already have some LPF already on

BTW Pedja's buffers should go nicely with the TDA1543 ;)

leo
05-05-2009, 23:04
Just scrolled back and noticed it is that ebay dac, I presume you've been using those axial tants which came fitted for the coupling? if so I'd stick the new Ampohms in first and let it run in before thinking of any LPF's, those new 3.3uf caps alone should give you quite noticeable difference;)

jkeny
05-05-2009, 23:55
Seen as this ecdesigns mod proved so successful did anyone try his other suggestion

- for dynamic jitter reduction circuit?

The already extremely low jitter is further attenuated in the dynamic jitter attenuation circuit. This circuit mainly tackles the lower jitter frequency spectrum (this is a problematic range for crystal oscillators).

The Schottky diodes perform clock signal interruption below TDA1543 digital input bias voltage, this greatly reduces interference. The attenuated clock signal appears across the 150 Ohm resistor. The clock signal also drives an integrator, composed of 220nF and 490 Ohm (approx. values). The integrator derives an average bias voltage that fluctuates with the master clock duty cycle (jitter) and thus manipulates the bias voltage. This determines the exact moment the TDA1543 output latch triggers. The required corrections are extremely small.


Another thing I have wondered about - what about using one of those Silonex LDR vol controls as the IV resistor - reason being they are purportedly high quality Rs as good as Vishay bulk foils and the idea of being able to vary it could allow experimentation with IV?

jkeny
06-05-2009, 00:19
Leo,
Can you post a schematic of the Swenson discrete reg you use for the 5V supply?

Edit: How close to the Sabre does this NOS DAC sound now?

leo
06-05-2009, 18:12
Leo,
Can you post a schematic of the Swenson discrete reg you use for the 5V supply?

Edit: How close to the Sabre does this NOS DAC sound now?

Scroll down here , its shown in the post by John Swenson http://www.diyhifi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1323
I've compared a range of caps on the output including the one he recommends, I thought BG FK series was the best, not normally a BG fan but these worked well imo for this app

Modified Sabre dac sounds so different to anything I've used before so its hard to compare tbh and with TDA1543 NOS you just can't get much more different than a chip like the Sabre.
If I ripped out all the mods, regs etc and ran it as standard I'd probably like this dac a little better, although Sabre had way more power,detail etc I found it lacking that magic in the mids, since the mods though imo the Sabre beats it in almost all area's

Compared to AYA dac using TDA1541 I'd say this TDA1543 has a way to go until its as good as this one regarding sheer musical pleasure.

The upside is that this TDA1543 with the bat bias tweak is cheap as chips and sounds damn good if the low output does not cause problems

Tripmaster
22-05-2009, 13:14
Hi Leo

I swapped out those output caps and the DAC sounds much better with the AMPOHMS!

I have been reading this thread and the thread on DIYA regarding the EC Designs battery mod, and I’d like to give it a go.

If you remember I am supplying my TDA1543 with 8v dc.

Are you able to describe how I should apply this new mod to my current setup?

Thanks again :)

Richard

leo
23-05-2009, 10:21
Hi Leo

I swapped out those output caps and the DAC sounds much better with the AMPOHMS!

I have been reading this thread and the thread on DIYA regarding the EC Designs battery mod, and I’d like to give it a go.

If you remember I am supplying my TDA1543 with 8v dc.

Are you able to describe how I should apply this new mod to my current setup?

Thanks again :)

Richard


Hi Richard,

I don't think its as straightforward using an 8v regs, I tried it with various tweaks and it gave higher distortion

Best thing to do is change the 8v reg back to 5v and we can work from there:)

BTW I presume you have a line stage or pre amp with a lot of gain?

Leo

samoloko
28-05-2009, 12:47
Hi

If I like to use ecdesigns mod with 3V battery I can not use 8V supply of tda1543 ?
Leo are you using John Swenson regulator at 8V - if so with what values for Led and resistors
anyone tried to mount 4 tda1543 ? - improvement ?

leo
28-05-2009, 21:41
Hi

If I like to use ecdesigns mod with 3V battery I can not use 8V supply of tda1543 ?
Leo are you using John Swenson regulator at 8V - if so with what values for Led and resistors
anyone tried to mount 4 tda1543 ? - improvement ?

I used the Swenson reg set to 5v using a single 3mm green led
If you want to increase the voltage out just add more led's in series

Its not a bad discrete regulator and is cheap to build

samoloko
29-05-2009, 08:13
thx for reply

have you tried dac with 4 or 8 tda1543 parellel
If I like to try It - do I have to do anything than stack Ics on top
also ecdesigns got another mod - floating power

leo
29-05-2009, 10:04
thx for reply

have you tried dac with 4 or 8 tda1543 parellel
If I like to try It - do I have to do anything than stack Ics on top
also ecdesigns got another mod - floating power


Yes, I've tried parallel TDA1543's, I personally prefer single chip but I can understand why others do like parallel chips better

Stacked chips give more current, basically sounds louder with more bass if using a passive I/V stage

Its supposed to improve noise figures

To my ears parallel dacs didn't sound as natural, I found it robbed a lot of what makes these chips likeable , some will disagree which is ok, its just my opinion;)
Also I think stacking chips is best left to the newer types which tend to be much more tightly matched , theres a big variation between the older TDA types

Also paralleling these TDA1543's generate much more heat, the chips MUST be properly heatsinked, if you don't you'll reduce lifespan, these will go noisy after longterm use at high temps

robertor
08-01-2010, 18:59
hi everybody,
a little bit late but i bought this 1*TDA1543 + DIR9001.
i hope arrive soon.
certainly i will change all the elko capacitors with some more audiograde and the film capacitors with some russian PIO or PETP.
i'd like to build a PSU very silent like that you can see here:

http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/convertus3_e.html

ok, i know, the PSU cost will be 3 time the cost for the complete DAC but the advantage, maybe, will be guaranteed.
at least i hope, otherwise will be as throw the money in the dustbin.
what you think about?
thanks.

Themis
08-01-2010, 19:19
NOS dacs are evil. :ner:

Nice work Leo. ;)

leo
08-01-2010, 23:58
1543's are cheap and easy to use, they are a good starter into diy, start basic and work your way up

leo
09-01-2010, 00:00
BTW I'm currently playing about with another NOS dac, its a diy Paradise Monica3, I'll post some details when its ready